Top 10 watches from Watches and Wonders 2022
Fernando AldeaAs Watches & Wonders draws to a close for another year, the geniuses at Watchfinder take a look back at some of the event's best and most exciting releases in what has been a masterclass in horology.
Rolex GMT-Master II
As expected, Rolex has updated one of its models with another new colorway. This time, it's the GMT-Master II, which has benefited from a new green bezel that we believe is destined to be affectionately nicknamed the "Sprite." What wasn't so predictable was the fact that it's a right-hand watch, with the crown and date window on the left, as well as the offer of an Oyster and Jubilee bracelet. Like all Rolex releases, this is a highly desirable timepiece.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time
This is a rather special release from Patek, as it marks the first time the brand has combined its Annual Calendar and Travel Time complications into a single watch. With these two useful functions on board, this Patek can read two time zones via Travel Time, as well as display the day, date, and month thanks to the Annual Calendar. Not only that, it also looks great, with an elegant Calatrava case and a textured gray dial reminiscent of old-fashioned cameras, giving this watch a romantic vintage charm.
» More information at Patek Philippe
Tudor Black Bay Pro
If this is your first time seeing Tudor's Black Bay Pro, we can only assume you've spent the last few days living on the fringes of civilization. This GMT will delight anyone who's always coveted a coveted Rolex Explorer II reference 1655, the so-called "Steve McQueen" model, even though there's no evidence they ever wore it. With a look similar to that Rolex, this is Tudor's flagship model for 2022.
A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater
The minute repeater is a complication that is far from easy, but A. Lange & Söhne has achieved it. Limited to 50 pieces, this Richard Lange Minute Repeater will appeal to watch enthusiasts worldwide, both visually and acoustically, as the hours chime with a lower pitch, the quarter-hours with a double tone, and the minutes that have elapsed since the last quarter-hour with a higher pitch. Furthermore, through the open caseback, the workings of the gong hammers and the striking mechanism can be observed on a captivating display.
» More information at A. Lange & Söhne
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
Vacheron Constantin has decided to update its beloved Overseas model by stripping it back to reveal a skeletonized dial and adding a tourbillon. It's also the first VC model crafted entirely from lightweight titanium, giving it a contemporary feel. The open caseback reveals a newly redesigned version of the caliber 2160, which features a stunning guilloché gold oscillating weight bearing the Vacheron Constantin name.
» More information at Vacheron Constantin
Patek Philippe World Time
Patek Philippe expands its prestigious World Time series with the reference 5230P-001, the first time the brand has combined a platinum case with a blue dial and matching strap. It also features a newly minted dial with a hand-guilloché center. This incredible timepiece controls 24 time zones thanks to an ingenious mechanism patented in 1999. Other World Time models presented at Watches and Wonders included a model with a cloisonné dial and a green Ladies World Time with a diamond-set bezel.
» More information at Patek Philippe
Rolex Air-King
Before Watches and Wonders, there was speculation that Rolex would part with the Air-King like a cheating spouse. Some overexcited people even suggested it might undergo a major design overhaul. In the end, neither happened; the dial was simply modified to give it more balance—changing the "5" to "05" —and a crown guard was added. Small changes, yes, but did they improve the watch? Absolutely.
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon
If anyone doubted Grand Seiko's ability to compete with Swiss fine watchmaking, this skeleton tourbillon will have convinced them otherwise. Seiko, the only Japanese brand present at Watches and Wonders, captivated attendees with its exquisite workmanship and technical prowess. Grand Seiko was late to the tourbillon game, having only recently begun producing them a couple of years ago, but judging by the looks of it, you'd never think so. Getting your hands on one of the 20 pieces produced will be no easy feat.
» More information at Grand Seiko
IWC Ceratanium Chronograph
IWC’s titanium and ceramic amalgamation, Ceratanium , could easily have been called “Titanic,” but there’s nothing doomed about this watch. It made perfect sense to use this super-tough, super-light material for one of its iconic pilot’s chronographs, and with its gunmetal gray hue, it looks like a heavy-duty military timepiece. IWC’s offering at Watches and Wonders was dominated by pilot’s watches, including a white ceramic model, but this was undoubtedly the standout.
Panerai Luminor Goldtech Perpetual Calendar
Panerai unveiled this stunning Goldtech (the brand's own rose gold) version of the perpetual calendar Luminor at Watches and Wonders, proving that there's nothing incongruous about putting one of horology's most revered complications inside a watch originally made for naval divers. Superbly executed, this is a watch that the so-called Paneristi will welcome with open arms, even though most of them will never see one in metal, let alone own one. It's limited to just 33 pieces.
