Ultra-deep diving watches
Daniel PintoPutting on a diving watch, or a pilot's watch, or whatever, allows us to travel in our minds to a place where we can be the protagonists of the adventure, and imagine ourselves achieving the feats that 20th-century adventurers achieved while using these real tools on their wrists.
Let's face it, no one needs a mechanical dive watch. Let alone one that can reach depths only accessible underwater. If we consider that the world's diving depth record is close to 700 meters, we'll see that all the watches on this list are designed to take us to places where our anatomy would lose the battle long before the watch itself. Ask a professional saturation diver what they wear on their wrist, and chances are they'll have a Suunto, Garmin, Cressi, or another dive computer. Since the arrival of the Citizen Aqualand in the 1980s, dive computers have become increasingly more comprehensive, advancing at the pace of technology, while watchmaking has stagnated its technical progress to focus on craftsmanship, luxury, and nostalgia. Still, even if we don't even have a PADI license to splash around at 18 meters, the dive watch is more alive than ever, being by far the most sought-after category among collectors.
It's not the adventure of diving itself that calls us, but the fantasy of what that adventure could be, and how the watch is a real, tangible amulet of what that experience could be. Yet, manufacturers continue to compete to see who can go the deepest, and we continue to value that desire to excel, even if it's just to show off at a gathering with friends and never touch the water with our precious watch. Here, we celebrate some of our favorite monsters of the deep and the attributes that make them so special.
1. El Papi: Rolex Deep Sea Special
A true mutant , as distinct as it was fascinating, the famous Deep Sea Special managed to descend to a depth of 10,908 meters in the Mariana Trench with the bathyscaphe Trieste in 1960 (more than 60 years ago). Led by Auguste Piccard , this feat reminds us of the incredible 1960s in terms of exploration, both lunar and terrestrial, with milestones that to this day seem unattainable, and all achieved with analog technology. Part of Hans Wilsdorf's program to perfect his diving watches, which had been launched a few years earlier, the lessons learned from the various Trieste missions shaped different prototypes of the Deep Sea Special, all with domed Plexiglas crystals and the curious combination of steel and gold, something that today would seem out of place in such a technical watch.
This model's record lasted for many decades and is a testament to Rolex's prowess when it comes to innovation and constant improvement. Despite its comical dimensions, we can see that the Rolex design DNA is very much present, and that the evolutionary line has remained 100% consistent with the new Submariner and Sea-Dweller in the current catalog. An unforgettable pioneer in a decade full of pioneers.
2. The new one: Omega Ultra Deep
Nothing lasts forever, and like all records, Omega managed to dethrone Rolex in 2019 with its Planet Ocean Ultra Deep Professional . In the same Mariana Trench where Piccard had descended to 10,908 meters with the Rolex Deep Sea Special, this time Victor Vescovo managed to descend to 10,935 meters , achieving a new world record, accompanied by three Omega watches that withstood the pressure without any problem. What's more, those watches had been laboratory tested at more than 1,500 bar (15,000 meters) and after the trip, their precision remained intact, reaching the demanding Master Chronometer standard that Omega promises for all watches in the line. To celebrate the achievement, this year the brand launched "civilian" versions of that model, which at 28 mm in height was clearly not a very viable option for everyday use.
The new model, now just 18 mm tall and 45.5 mm in diameter, also features a titanium case, but this version offers a guaranteed depth of 6,000 meters . It maintains the asymmetrical shape of the original, and the "Manta" lug shape means it can only be used with NATO straps. We love the combination of blue and gray with the warmth of titanium, which gives a very technical look, something to be expected considering that even the crystal used in this watch had to be developed and patented specifically for it. Its case is so watertight that it doesn't require a helium escape valve for those few (very few) who do saturation diving, and its €12,900 price tag is a further nod to the fact that it's targeting the Sea-Dweller as a direct competitor. The king is dead, long live the king .
3. The complicated one: Blancpain X Fathoms
Others might claim to have made mechanical depth gauges, like the Oris Aquis Depth Gauge or the IWC Deep Three, but no one has managed to cram as much diving-relevant information into a single watch as Blancpain. The X Fathoms is the giant of the family, measuring 55mm in diameter and 24mm tall. While it’s not known for its water resistance, which only reaches 300 meters , we wanted to highlight this beast because it’s the most complicated of all the dive watches and because it comes from Blancpain, who invented the dive watch with the Fifty Fathoms in 1953, a year before the Rolex Submariner.
Its movement incorporates more than 400 individual components , equivalent to a Patek Grand Complication, allowing it to simultaneously display three key functions : an ultra-precise depth gauge up to 15 meters, a depth gauge up to 90 meters, and a 5-minute countdown timer for decompression stops. All this without losing legibility, with 100% luminous indicators, and a whole lot of style. It's ultra-comfortable despite its size, thanks to the strap's special construction with 14 points of articulation and its grade 5 titanium case. Bonus points for the retro touch with the sapphire bezel and the watchmaking credibility of Blancpain, with the guts to release a watch so technical, so specific, and so expensive (around USD 35,000) that no one needs, and yet we'd all kill to own it.
4. The modern one: Hublot King Power Diver
No one can say that Hublot flies under the radar. With as many detractors as fans, the brand leaves no one indifferent, especially when it comes to its ultra-modern and aggressive designs. Its technical credentials have been questioned many times, but somehow Hublot always seems to respond with something successful that allows it to continue winning battles. This was the case in 2011 at the Basel trade fair, when the brand presented the King Power Diver , which at first glance looks like any other King Power. The difference? A small inscription on the dial with the number 4,000. 4,000 meters? That's right, this Hublot can reach 4,000 meters —truly insane for a brand with no technical pedigree in this area or a track record in the diving category.
The coolest thing is that Hublot’s aesthetic seems to have been created specifically for diving, because this model suits it wonderfully. Made from either carbon fiber or titanium (it’s not called the Master of Materials for nothing), the 48mm King Power Diver is capable yet lightweight, with a very attractive internal rotating bezel system operated by a crown at 2 o’clock and plenty of luminous material for operating in the dark depths of the ocean. Hublot being Hublot, since 2011 we’ve seen thousands of limited editions of this model, each with its own little design detail that makes it special, and all with that implausible 4,000 on the dial that proves the brand never ceases to surprise.
5. The low cost: Zelos Abyss
$3 per meter of depth. That's the unbeatable value proposition of the Abyss , the most advanced watch from Zelos, the microbrand that's been shaking up the digital space for a few years now and has been consolidating its position with each new release. At $949, no one can offer more than this watch. 3,000 meters of water resistance, a bronze case, a double crown, a second time zone, and spectacular luminous material—what more could we ask for? Its bronze case draws attention thanks to its double crown, and like all the watches on this list, it's not suitable for small wrists, measuring 43 mm, but it's quite wearable all the way around. Additionally, it includes a helium escape valve for saturation diving, and details like the engraved case back, the domed 7 mm crystal, and the extra-soft rubber bracelet seem to mock watches priced many times higher and incapable of delivering an experience like this.
The bronze case certainly won't be to everyone's taste, due to its natural patina and greenish color, but those who like that style are truly fans of the aged, personalized look that can be achieved with this material, commonly used in submarines. We love the brand, we love the look, but more than anything, we love the fact that advanced technology and professional features are both democratic and entertaining—exactly what Zelos brings to the watch world.
Find a King Power , Rolex Submariner , Omega Seamaster , and other deep diving watches in our shop.
