What's up with GMT?
Daniel PintoIt's, without a doubt, the hottest complication in the watch world. From Seiko to Patek, and across the spectrum, it seems like every brand has released at least one GMT model, or one with some dual-time-zone functionality, in the last year, and the pace shows no signs of slowing down. When did this happen, and what are the reasons?
One possible explanation is that as pandemic-imposed travel restrictions began to ease, people resumed traveling, both for vacation and business, and for jetsetters, GMT is the most useful and glamorous complication. On the other hand, our increasingly connected economy has forced us to pay attention to time zones in other countries when scheduling virtual meetings and making international calls. If this is the case, it's important to understand how this complication works and the different ways to implement it according to each model.
A watch with GMT or Dual Time incorporates the specific functionality of displaying at least a second time zone, in addition to the local time we are normally used to seeing on our watches, represented by the hour, minute, and (usually) second hands. The acronym GMT refers to Greenwich Mean Time , also known as Universal Central Time , which is basically the place where the meridian passes, and therefore is the 0 hour, or reference time. Around this GMT time, and depending on which meridian they are on, different countries or geographical areas establish their time zones, with countries to the East "adding" to GMT and countries to the West subtracting hours from GMT (for example, Santiago, Chile is located in a time zone defined by GMT -4. That is, 4 hours are "subtracted" from the GMT reference time to obtain the current time in Santiago). This convention of having a common reference time, such as GMT, makes it possible to coordinate events between different geographical areas of the world and is widely used in the military field.
By knowing the Greenwich Mean Time, we can theoretically calculate the time anywhere in the world. For this reason, many watches with GMT functionality also incorporate dials or mechanisms that transform them into "Worldtimers," capable of displaying the time in different parts of the world simultaneously, based on each country's longitude relative to GMT.
Now that we know what it is, it's important to understand the ways in which different brands apply this technology to their calibers to design their watches with GMT functionality. The most common, and simplest to implement from a technical standpoint, is the GMT "caller," where pulling the crown independently moves the watch's second hour hand (which usually comes in a distinct, eye-catching color). This mechanism format is generally cheaper to produce but is less effective for travelers who want to quickly set their watch to reflect the local time of their recent arrival, without losing sight of their reference time (which is usually the time in their home country, or GMT). Models like the new Seiko 5 Sports use this type of GMT module, reaching the market at very affordable prices, even under USD 500.
The second type of GMT movement is called the “Flyer” GMT. Its difference lies in that pulling the crown to the first position allows me to adjust the local time, via the main hand of the watch, in jumping 1-hour increments. This allows me to set the GMT time or my home city (my city of residence) once on the secondary hour hand (the brightly colored one), and then each time I land somewhere, quickly set the main hour hand back to the local time. In this type of movement, the date display is also linked to the main hand, so when I make adjustments to the local time when I land, the date is automatically adjusted if I move forward or backward past midnight. This type of GMT module is more advanced and complex to make, and we see it in watches like the Rolex GMT-Master II or the new Tudor Black Bay Pro . Watches with this type of movement generally exceed $2,000.
Is it really useful?
Depending on the type of job someone has, the GMT could be considered a useful complication, in the same way that a chronograph watch can be very useful for timing while I'm cooking a hard-boiled egg. The reality is that with our always-connected smartphones, we have constant access to the local time and our home time, without having to make any adjustments to the device. Even our work calendars often sync automatically when the device detects we're in another country.
Like much of what we love about this hobby, it's a romantic complication, an ode to the golden age of air traffic and tool watches, when brands like Rolex and Breitling dedicated their time and effort to developing tailor-made solutions for airlines with their GMT-Master, an instrument that was once invaluable to a pilot's work. It's simply incredible what it feels like to look at our wrist and see that tiny hand indicating that, in some distant corner of the world, the sun is already setting or your loved ones have yet to wake up.
More than any other complication, the GMT invites us to imagine what's happening in distant landscapes and has the ability, through just a small hand, to remind us that someone is waiting for us at home. It's this sense of connection that may be driving the current rise of this type of watch, at a time when humanity is all searching for that human connection. The fact that it also adds color and a touch of adventure to the dial of any watch makes it a dream for designers and marketing executives. Unlike the chronograph, it doesn't require a large amount of additional information to be displayed on the dial (except for Worldtimers), and it doesn't typically add bulk to a movement's design.
For all tastes
The offering is incredibly varied in design, features, and price. For those willing to spend the equivalent of a small island in the Caribbean, the Patek Philippe Pilot Travel Time presents a very different look from the rest of the Patek collection, with an ultra-clean dial, classic pilot's watch colors, and a vibe that we find much cooler than that of its Aquanaut and Nautilus stablemates at a fraction of the price and likely with a shorter waiting list. In the mid-range, the Rolex Pepsi is the benchmark in the category, the one that started it all, but scarcity and ridiculously low prices on the secondary market have transformed it into a cult object that is impossible for many to obtain. A good alternative within the family is the new Black Bay Pro , which, at 39 millimeters and with a look suspiciously similar to an older cousin, seems to be the hit of the year for Tudor.
A great option for those who want maximum quality with a more elegant look, are the new Grand Seiko GMT from the Evolution 9 collection, especially the textured white background SBGE285 that evokes the famous "Snowflake" , always inspired by natural phenomena observed in the vicinity of the brand's atelier in Japan, and which incorporates the legendary Spring Drive, a 100% unique and distinctive movement of the brand. In the entry-level range, do not miss the new Seiko 5 Sports GMT, which brings a very "Rolex" look to the brand's most popular sports collection, with the added detail of bringing back the classic Jubilee-style bracelet that we thought had disappeared when the much-loved SKX was discontinued. With 100 meters of resistance and a bezel made entirely of Hardlex crystal, we believe that it may be Seiko's most complete watch in 2022.
A very different design but similar in its great quality/price ratio is what Longines brought this month with the new Zulu Time , a very elegant pilot's watch within the Spirit line, which combines a "flyer" type GMT movement with first-class finishes, all in a very attractive 42 millimeter package and under USD 3,000. For those who want their GMT indestructible, they should not overlook Casio and its G-Shock . The new "Casioak" with Bluetooth connectivity incorporates the Worldtimer functionality at a price that is hard to beat (approx. USD 100), which added to its low profile makes it perhaps the most suitable GMT for those who travel to countries where security is an issue.
There you have it, a little bit about why we love that GMTs are back in fashion and some of this year's best new models. Don't forget to leave us your thoughts on this phenomenon and check out the selection of amazing GMTs we have at LOFT .
