Fer's Opinion: Big Releases, Small Disappointments
Fernando AldeaA year of contrasts at the industry's most anticipated trade show. Watches & Wonders 2025 was an event filled with expectations, watchmaking narcissism, and gleaming showcases.
The fair, which is in its final days this weekend, lived up to its promise of showcasing the best—and also the most controversial—of the current watch industry. It was a year that left us with a mixture of amazement, reflection, and the occasional grimace of dissatisfaction. While we saw impressive technical advances, we also witnessed some stylistic slips that are difficult to justify.
On the positive side, it's appreciated that certain brands have turned down the volume to focus on the essentials. IWC surprised with its new 35mm Ingenieur, a perfect size that does justice to more modest wrists, like mine. Furthermore, its Perpetual Calendar continues to demonstrate and consolidate the brand's mechanical expertise . In the more prestigious world, A. Lange & Söhne presented a Perpetual Minute Repeater that borders on the sculptural, while Patek Philippe reminded us of the meaning of good taste with its Calatrava 6196P-001: classic, precise, and effortlessly trying to appear anything other than pure excellence. Special mention to the wonderful Patek Quadruple Complication 5308G-001. Brutal!
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Patek Philippe Quadruple ComplicationBut let's get to the elephant in the room: the Rolex Deepsea Land-Dweller. In technical terms, we're looking at a feat of engineering. An Oysterquartz case with an integrated bracelet, a transparent case back, an out-of-this-world caliber, and a quality that only Rolex can promise with such almost divine authority. But let's be honest, what happened to the design? Huh? It looks like a cross between the Datejust, the Explorer, and some experimental model that should never have left the laboratory. The rehaut (the flange or ring between the dial and the case), in particular, has a finish that evokes more a massive plastic display watch than a professional tool. And the intrusive "honeycomb" dial... A shame, because the foundation was there for something truly iconic.
Cartier also joined the questionable decisions with the new Tank à Guichets, which attempts to reimagine a classic but ends up looking more like a gadget from a science fiction novel or a mini bathroom scale for the wrist. And we can't overlook the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, which looks like it dressed up as Iron Man for a gala party: technically remarkable, but visually oversaturated. In a year where many brands sought synthesis and balance—applause to them—these releases fall flat due to misguided ambition—blunders to them.
Rolex Land-Dweller Cartier Tank à Guichets TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds ChronographIn short, Watches & Wonders 2025 provided us with both inspiration and fodder for debate. And that's not a bad thing; we love it that way. Watchmaking thrives on controversy, conflicting passions, and aesthetic disagreements. We were delighted to see how some brands understand that less can be more, while others still struggle to find the right balance. In this world where everything fits under 40 mm, what's left over isn't exactly a case: it's ego, nothing more, but poorly designed.
