Brands that will dominate watchmaking in the near future
Daniel PintoThe watchmaking world is facing a new power reconfiguration. After a difficult 2024, with the Chinese market crisis hitting hard, the epicenter of luxury watch consumption has shifted to the United States.
The American market has taken the lead as the main destination for Swiss exports, and its growth potential is enormous. There's still room for the average ticket price and per capita watch consumption in the U.S. to approach the levels of Asia and Europe. The big question is: which brands will capitalize on this new dynamic?
Rolex, the undisputed king
When it comes to Americans' favorite brands, the first name that pops up is Rolex. The crown brand is better positioned than ever to consolidate its dominance. The construction of a new factory will increase production and meet insatiable demand. The acquisition of Carl F. Bucherer also plays a key role, strengthening its retail strategy and ensuring more direct control over distribution. Added to this are the strategic launches designed for the American market, giving Rolex a difficult advantage to overcome in the coming years.
Another brand with a promising future is Audemars Piguet. With the appointment of a new CEO and the boost it has gained from its 150th anniversary celebrations, the Swiss house has demonstrated its continued innovation. The launch of its first perpetual calendar caliber, fully adjustable from the crown, has been a clear statement of intent. Although its popularity cooled somewhat after the pandemic, the expansion of the AP Houses strengthens its presence in key markets. All indications are that AP will consolidate its position as a leader in the high-end segment, competing more closely with Patek Philippe and outpacing Vacheron Constantin and Richard Mille.
In the mid-range category, Tudor is one of the brands with the greatest growth potential. Despite a challenging 2024, it has managed to sustain public interest with successful launches. Its expansion strategy through its own boutiques is in its early stages, meaning there is plenty of room for growth. Tudor is emerging as a great alternative for those seeking quality and prestige at an affordable price, which could make it one of the most successful brands in the coming years.
The rise of the independents
In the entry-level and accessible segment, independent brands will be the big winners. Firms such as Ming, Baltic, and even Christopher Ward have managed to differentiate themselves with fresh and well-executed offerings. They have managed to generate a loyal customer base and have demonstrated that creativity and quality are not exclusive to industry giants. Their growth could lead them to a further level of consolidation, even attracting the attention of large watchmaking groups seeking new acquisitions.
The market is changing, and the brands that know how to adapt to new global consumer trends will dominate the next decade. Rolex will remain king, but Audemars Piguet could challenge it in the high-end segment. Tudor has a clear path to expansion, and independent brands could be the surprises of the sector. Watchmaking is undergoing a period of transformation, and those who know how to read the market will set the pace for the coming years.
