The LOFT Awards 2024
Fernando AldeaOnce again, our watch awards ceremony, the LOFT Awards, is here, highlighting the best, worst, and most exciting aspects of the watch world. From iconic brands to the most unusual surprises, we look back at the gems (and disasters) that defined 2024.
This year, the watch industry was more than lively. There was much talk of a possible "luxury fatigue," but while there are signs of saturation in some segments, brands haven't slowed down. Watchmaking, like fine whiskey, knows how to adapt to the times: while some consumers shied away from stratospheric prices, others ran straight for the most exclusive releases.
The consolidation of large groups was key. Rolex acquired Bucherer, expanded its Certified Pre-Owned program, and opened its first self-operated boutique, making it clear that the giant has no plans to rest on its throne. Meanwhile, independent and microbrands made waves with innovative designs and more grounded prices, filling a void in the market. The result? An industry that remains vibrant and ready for what's next in 2025.
Against this backdrop, the LOFT Awards highlight this year's big winners—and losers. It's time to shine a spotlight on the best and worst of the 2024 watch world.
Brand of the Year: H. Moser & Cie.
The brand that took all the plaudits this year was H. Moser & Cie., and for good reason. Led by the great Edouard Meylan, this small but innovative Swiss watchmaker continues to prove that tradition can be respected while innovating powerfully. In 2024, Moser excelled with perhaps unexpected collaborations such as those with Massena Lab and Studio Underd0g, reaffirming its position as a brand that connects with demanding enthusiasts who are also open to new things.
Among its most notable releases, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds broke the mold with its ultra-modern design and beautiful dial, while the Streamliner Small Seconds emerged as the winner of the Time Only Award at the 2024 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) thanks to its flawless aesthetic and technical execution. With a clear focus in recent years on the Streamliner line, Moser is building its own icon within the watchmaking universe, proving that excellence must be strategic and characterful.
H. Moser & Cie. has had an incredible year. With a blend of creativity, design, and precision watchmaking, we're eager to see what 2025 will bring.
Influencer of the Year: Jean-Claude Biver
The Influencer of the Year award is almost a tribute to a lifetime achievement, but in my case, it has a personal touch. Jean-Claude Biver is identical to my paternal grandfather, Tata Omar. Not similar: the same. So, with this award, I feel like I'm honoring my grandfather, which makes everything even more exciting (and nepotistic).
That said, the real honoree is Jean-Claude Biver, a giant who this year decided retirement wasn't for him. He launched Biver Watches with his son Pierre, and, like any true veteran, he didn't do things by halves: his first watch was a $600,000 carillon tourbillon. Because if you're going to enter the ring, do it in style. His second piece is already sold out, proving Biver hasn't lost his touch.
His career is a manual on how to transform brands: he revived Blancpain, Omega, and Hublot, always leaving his mark. This year, with dragon dials and retro touches, he showed he still has much to contribute. The latest edition of Hodinkee dedicated an entire chapter to him, an ode to his impact. Biver not only influenced the past and present of watchmaking, but with his new brand, he's shaping the future. He is, without a doubt, our Influencer of the Year.
Best Design: Audemars Piguet Master02 Selfwinding
We give this award to the watch that left everyone speechless, not for its movement or functionality, but for its design. And here the bar was set high. But Audemars Piguet came, saw, and conquered with the Master02 Selfwinding, a reinterpretation of the 1960s original that captures all the audacity and architectural style of its era. An asymmetrical clock? Of course. Brutalist? Absolutely. And, as your neighbor would say, "you can tell it's an AP from miles away."
This model is not only a tribute, but also an example of how to transform a classic into a modern icon. The case boldly expands to one side, breaking with the idea that symmetry is the only path to beauty. The result is a design that achieves balance in its imbalance, with the quality and finishes that only Audemars Piguet can deliver.
Sometimes beauty lies in the unexpected, and this watch proves it from every angle. So yes, Audemars Piguet, you've earned it: Best Design of the Year, and our admiration. Applause, please.
Watch of the Year: Omega Moonwatch First Omega in Space
The Watch of the Year isn't just another accessory. It's the model that sparks passionate debates, envious glances, and an uncontrollable desire to add it to our collection. This year, the honor went to the Omega Moonwatch, First Omega in Space, a model that redefines what a Moonwatch can be and masterfully reinterprets its history.
I was lucky enough to try it just three days after its launch at the Geneva boutique, and the experience was literally out of this world. This watch is the perfect combination of design and technology: ideal size, a new Master Chronometer-certified caliber, and a bracelet that fits like a glove. But what really makes it stand out is its blue-grey sunburst dial, which plays with the light like few watches can. It's not simply blue, nor is it simply grey; it's an intermediate shade that changes depending on the angle, with slightly patinated indexes that add a vintage touch.
Omega, a finalist in our Brand of the Year category, demonstrates with this release why it remains one of the most beloved brands among enthusiasts. With a down-to-earth price tag for its category, this Moonwatch celebrates Omega's glorious past and positions itself as a modern icon. If there's one watch that defines 2024, it's this one.
Best Complication of the Year: IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
When it comes to horological complications, there are levels. And then there's the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, which this year takes the prize for elevating the category to an almost heavenly level. It's not just any perpetual calendar; this watch promises to keep you on the right date for the next 45 million years! Yes, you read that right. At this point, we don't even know if the solar system still exists, but your Portugieser will be ready to remind you what day it is.
This technically impressive model is a perfect example of the balance between functionality and design. Despite its complexity, its dial is legible and clean, displaying everything with a clarity few brands achieve. The perfectly balanced case size and the sapphire dome protecting the movement are testaments to the craftsmanship that characterizes IWC. And while we can't confirm whether the eternal calendar will truly withstand millions of years, just looking at the finishes and details is enough to realize you're looking at a masterpiece.
It's a watch that redefines the concept of "perpetual" and, without exaggeration, seems designed not only for the present, but for eternity. That's why the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar is our undisputed winner in this category.
Best affordable watch: Baltic Hermétique
In a category that grows more competitive every year, the Baltic Hermétique takes home gold at the 2024 LOFT Awards. Why? Because it manages to combine tradition, quality, and design in a package that won't leave you heartbroken when you check your bank account. This watch is living proof that you don't need to mortgage your house to wear something special on your wrist.
The Hermétique revives those vintage codes we love so much, with classic Arabic numerals at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions—a trend that always works. Its modestly sized and perfectly proportioned bronze case is a gem in itself. But the real masterstroke is its fumé dial, available in colors like green, burgundy, and blue. These combinations, along with modern rubber straps in matching hues, offer a sophisticated look that doesn't try to scream luxury, but succeeds.
The best part is its price: €600. An automatic bronze watch with this quality and design for that price? A happy ending, as we might say. Baltic has proven it doesn't need to inflate its prices to win the hearts of enthusiasts. If one thing's clear, it's that this brand knows exactly where to aim, and with the Hermétique, it's right on target.
Worst brand of the year: Bremont
When we talk about the worst of the year, it's not always easy to choose. However, Bremont stood out—and not in a good way. This English brand, known for its focus on pilot's watches and its connection to aviation, decided to reinvent itself in 2024, but ended up getting lost along the way. The most disconcerting thing is that they took away the talented Davide Cerato, who had demonstrated his genius at Montblanc and Bvlgari. But here... something went seriously wrong.
Changing a brand's entire identity is no small feat, and Bremont did it without any fuss. A new logo, new cases, generic bracelets that look like they're straight from Breitling, and designs that feel closer to an AliExpress catalog than to British watchmaking tradition. The result? A brand that lost its essence, its character, and the connection with the enthusiasts who used to admire it.
Mind you, we're not haters. We like Bremont. We've even had some interesting models in our store. But the watch community also joined in the confusion: what they did this year was, quite simply, a disaster. If we learned anything from this, it's that not all reinventions are necessary, especially when they sacrifice what makes a brand special. Bremont, please wake up.
Worst watch of the year: Patek Philippe Cubitus
If this award had a background music, it would be the "Jackal with the Trumpet," because the Patek Philippe Cubitus earned, by a landslide, the title of worst watch of the year. How did we get here? First, let's look at the facts: Patek decided to close its acclaimed chapter on the Nautilus 5711, a watch that marked a turning point in watchmaking, only to present... this.
The Cubitus was their first collection in over 20 years, and expectations were sky-high. But what we received was a design that seemed to have come from a bad dream of Gérald Genta's. Disproportionate, with elements placed for no apparent reason, and a dial that combines a giant date subdial with a tiny seconds hand in the least intuitive place possible. As if that weren't enough, Thierry Stern—in an act that only made things worse—came out to defend the design, saying that "critics simply don't have the money for a Patek."
Watchmaking is art, but this watch looks like a meaningless collage. If we learned anything from this disaster, it's that even great brands can stumble badly. Patek, we love you, reconsider.
https://youtu.be/YaOKaj1IvIU?si=7MpIx3awUbmQW0tPSee you at the LOFT Awards 2025
This is how we close out this year's 2024 LOFT Awards, with controversies, surprises, and plenty of conversation-worthy watches. This year made it clear that the industry is still moving, adapting, innovating, and sometimes making mistakes. But if we know one thing, it's that watches aren't just objects; they're stories, miniature art, and a reflection of who we are as collectors and enthusiasts.
From the most spectacular watch to the most questionable, we've enjoyed dissecting each category, passionately debating and laughing out loud at some of the missteps. We're already looking forward to what 2025 will bring: new trends, more surprises, and who knows, maybe even a new "Cubitus" to tear apart.
So, get ready. We'll see you next year with more awards, more anecdotes, and, of course, more watches. Because if there's one thing we're sure of, it's that time will always be better with watches. See you at the next LOFT Awards? Of course!
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