The winners of the decade
LOFTWe find ourselves at the epicenter of a global COVID-19 pandemic: cases exploding in Europe, borders closed, global stock markets plummeting, oil price wars, and even closures of iconic manufacturers like the Rolex factory in Geneva... A disaster of epic proportions that makes 2019, with all its ups and downs, feel like an all-inclusive vacation in the Maldives.
The truth is, we'd love to go back and return to the 2010-2019 decade, a decade filled with industry success, with brands that dusted off their historical archives to bring us hundreds of reissues of their most iconic models, and a global community of watch lovers who, at the breakneck pace of Instagram, went global and turned this hobby into a mainstream phenomenon. These last 10 years witnessed the dizzying pace with which the industry's power map changed, with brands that saw their value and credibility vanish, while others burst onto the scene to capture all the attention—and the dollars—of a new generation of collectors. Here we present our picks for the 5 brands that defined the decade .5. ORIS
The Holstein-based house relied on its Divers Sixty-Five and Aquis diving collections to deliver a parade of hit after hit, with sporadic appearances of more classic pieces to add variety to the collection, and finally crowning the decade with the disruptive ProPilot X , with its in-house movement and spectacular design. The truth is that the entrepreneurial spirit and the constant search to deliver the highest quality at reasonable prices have made Oris one of the favorite brands for those thinking of buying their first "real" watch.
Their stand at Baselworld always awaits us with surprises, to the point that their collections have already become classics, with limited editions that sell out in a matter of minutes. A testament to the explosive growth they've experienced in 10 years, the brand has already opened its first boutiques, where we can enjoy this little giant, a living example that traditional brands can survive in this cruel world without belonging to one of the big groups or selling their souls to the devil.
4. Tudor
No one has done a better mix of modernity and history than Tudor. The little brother took its big brother's recipe, stripped away the boring parts, and transformed it into a perfect product: the Black Bay . A perfect blend of the best of a 1960s Rolex sports car and the technology, quality, and usability of a brand that thrives in the $3,000 to $5,000 segment.
Over the years, the Black Bay has spawned countless variations, all sharing the original's vintage feel and incorporating complications like chronographs and GMTs. Then came the addition of an in-house movement and the export of the design language to create another winner: the Pelagos . In short, the brand hit the nail on the head, delivering a product with a highly revered design, the credibility, and the immaculate quality that comes with being made in-house as Rolex, at a price its competitors are unlikely to match (perhaps adding the dubious contribution of ambassadors like David Beckham and Lady Gaga).
From being the little brother hiding in the attic, Tudor has transformed into a success story worthy of emulation, opening new markets in the US and Japan, and winning the hearts, not just the minds, of those looking to play in the big leagues without going bankrupt.
3. Grand Seiko
If there's a perfect example of what's possible in a decade, Grand Seiko has to be the one. While the brand has been around since 1960 in Japan, it only made the leap onto the world stage in 2010, allowing lovers of perfection to access some of its creations without having to trawl through the Ginza galleries or, worse yet, the darkest corners of the internet. With its globalization, we were finally able to gain a deeper understanding of the virtues of this icon of Japanese manufacturing: dials that make us dream of mountains and sacred valleys on the Japanese island, Spring Drive technology, which is frankly superior to traditional mechanical movements, and its Zaratsu polishes that reflect light perfectly regardless of the angle or intensity.
Over the decade, Grand Seiko has exponentially increased its physical presence in the most demanding markets, and through its obsession with detail, it has managed to captivate the most acerbic critics. If you know a watch journalist, ask them what watches are in their collection; there's sure to be a Grand Seiko. This is a brand that must be appreciated to be valued, and once you're in it, there's no turning back. We're sure the Japanese are just gaining momentum and that in the coming decade, we'll witness how the Swiss industry will finally tremble at the presence of the Japanese giant.
2. Richard Mille
It could have been Greubel Forsey , Akrivia , MB&F , or Moser . Dozens of independent brands have made it big this decade. The emergence of direct-to-consumer online retail has broken down many barriers to entry, and more flexible, creative, and daring brands have capitalized on this opportunity to compete with the major players and gain ground among collectors. Still, no one has done it with the style of the great Richard Mille . The grand maestro managed to create more than just a brand, a club of young millionaires willing to pay anything—literally, anything—to belong to this select group. While it could be dismissed as a marketing ploy aimed at easy prey, the truth is that an RM watch, even at prices above $200,000, offers something no one else can: extreme technical innovation, previously unused space-age materials, and a truly unmistakable futuristic look have transformed each of the brand's pieces into resounding successes, with waiting lists that stretch for years.
Special mention should be made of the credibility they've gained through their ambassadors, such as Rafa Nadal , who is one of the few athletes who wears his watch while playing, along with Bubba Watson and Yohan Blake . Among the few luxury mechanical watches that can truly be considered sporty, Richard Mille arrived to rewrite what a cult brand can become. In the process, it cornered the niche of young "mega-millionaires," erasing the notion that a serious watch collector should hoard old gold Pateks and Daytonas from the 1970s. In an industry so rife with copies and reissues of historic models, RM's futuristic and extreme vision has been a welcome relief, forcing it to continue innovating to survive.
1. Rolex
We've finally reached number 1. We'd love to say this will be a surprise, that this time will be different, but we must be honest and acknowledge that by doing very few things very well, Rolex knows how to get the best results. A brand that has reigned supreme for 50 years, this decade saw the absolute consolidation of the Crown as the most desired and hated manufacturer of all. Its sports models are produced in dribs and drabs, its waiting lists stretch to five years, each new product is eagerly awaited as if it were the election of a new Pope, and its decisions are often misunderstood by the rest of the world.
The fact is that demand for their watches has exploded in these 10 years, reaching a market share of over 40% in their segment. The Hans Wildorf Foundation does things differently, without rushing, constantly making small, incremental improvements to their models and components, always with a focus on continuity. Nothing radical, but always looking to the future.
A new Daytona and GMT Master were enough to send the markets into a frenzy, achieving resale prices almost double their original value. Whether as a status symbol or an investment, the reality is that today more than ever a Rolex is recognized worldwide as the ultimate luxury item. Add to that the fortunes the brand spends on marketing, which helps boost the entire Swiss industry. What's more, the reason it's at the top of this list is that a Rolex remains a great buy: an over-engineered, over-built product, with an attention to detail that no one can match. At a reasonable price: not a small sum, but a fair price. The same recipe as the last 100 years, with different flavors, according to the times. Long live the King!
