LOFT present at the Only Watch 2021 auction
LOFTJust as it has for the past nine years since its inception, the Only Watch Foundation, sponsored by none other than Prince Albert II of Monaco, held its annual auction of unique watches in November.
This auction, where participating brands submit unique creations to be auctioned, benefits research for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy , and this year raised 30 million Swiss francs .
With orange being the color chosen for the 2021 theme, some brands brought truly incredible, innovative, classic, and other truly disruptive offerings. Here, we want to share our analysis of this year's standout watches and congratulate the winners, discover the surprises, and heartily mock those that clearly fell short.
https://youtu.be/6JlwwfaaBfoThe big winners
While it wasn't the most expensive watch at the auction, there's no doubt that the most discussed and commented on social media was the madness created jointly by the brilliant Francois Paul Journe and his filmmaker friend, a certain Francis Ford Coppola . This watch invented a new way of displaying time, using an automaton modeled after a medieval glove. It sounds like a lot to explain, but seeing the photos makes it easier to understand. A price of CHF 400,000 was expected, a barrier that it simply shattered, finally being sold for CHF 4,500,000 , a new record for a Journe.
Audemars Piguet gambled on a winner and hit the nail on the head. Its Royal Oak "Jumbo" , just like the original from the 1970s, this time came with a gray dial and a few minor innovations in materials. The mere fact that it's a unique piece, combined with the RO's stellar moment in the market, explains the final result of this lot. A not inconsiderable CHF 3,100,000 , considerably more than the CHF 300,000 previously estimated, and with the certainty that we will see it auctioned in the future for an even higher sum.
The strength of independence
Further proof that 2021 was the year in which independent watchmakers finally rose to the stardom they so richly deserve. The brightest stars in this segment, across a variety of price ranges, showed off their creativity and achieved prices unthinkable just a couple of years ago.
Our favorite independent was also a collaboration, another trend we've seen for some time in the fashion and music industries. In this case, it's Kari Voutilainen and De Bethune , who together designed a double-sided Tourbillon , mounted on one of De Bethune's most recognizable cases, but with Voutilainen's style and technology. The end result is mind-blowing, a piece that manages to look elegant and disruptive at the same time, full of details and with the most perfect handcrafted finishes we've seen in a while. The CHF 1,300,000 achieved must undoubtedly be the record price for both brands in their history, but whoever walked away with this watch should rest easy because they really have something special in their hands.
The ever-present Richard Mille couldn't fail. The prices for its regular collection are already eye-watering, and this prototype of the Charles Leclerc model was no exception. One fan paid more than 2 million Swiss francs to acquire this unique piece, intimately linked to the world of racing, and living proof that the Mille brand remains untouchable in the industry, breaking sales, price, and insanity records every year.
Without a doubt one of the crowd's favorites, and the big surprise of the bunch, was the small Baltic Pulsometer Monopulsante , which managed to raise CHF 50,000 . A sum that doesn't seem so crazy at first, but which, in the context of the brand's retail price of watches—less than CHF 1,000—is a veritable explosion of more than 50 times the "normal" selling price. This unique piece combines a restored Venus 150 movement with a black dial graduated to 30 beats, with yellow gold hands and indications. A memorable debut for the small French brand.
Classics that shone
Of the classics with a history that always live up to expectations, we must highlight two that far exceeded expectations and also brought innovative design to the table. First, the TAG Heuer Monaco Carbon masterfully unites this model's retro 70s silhouette with an ultra-futuristic, lightweight carbon execution. Its price tag of CHF 290,000 demonstrates that, while the brand as a whole is no longer experiencing its glory days, collectors and fans continue to appreciate the great icons created by Jack Heuer , especially this tribute to the famous "Dark Lord."
The second "classic" is a much newer model than the TAG, but one that has been so successful and popular in the industry and on social media that it feels like we've been seeing it for decades. This time, it's an extremely special and unique Tudor Black Bay GMT , with a look you either love or hate, but no one will be left indifferent. The 41-millimeter case is "aged" using a process that wears away the steel, giving it a dark, antique look. Inside, we find one of the first Tudor movements with Master Chronometer certification, a bold move by Tudor to take away Omega's exclusivity in terms of certification and demonstrate that its in-house movements live up to what collectors expect at this price point. Given the brand's popularity , it was no surprise to anyone that this unique model reached a price of CHF 650,000 , multiplying its initial estimate by several dozen, and to some extent making up for the absence of its Rolex "brothers ."
Disappointments and favorite
Everyone, especially us, expected this truly decadent and wonderful desk clock from Patek to break every record ever set. It might even have surpassed the Grandmaster Chime of previous years, which sold for over 30 million francs . This little surprise box, finished in the finest walnut, recreates a famous desk clock commissioned from Patek in 1923 by one of its best clients, the American industrial magnate James Packard . With a 31-day power reserve and several complications developed based on the new caliber 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE, the Patek ultimately went for CHF 9,500,000 , a real bargain and far from the initial estimates that placed it well over 10 million.
In closing, we feel compelled to pour our hearts into this H. Moser . It's a perfect combination of the brand's greatest hits , bringing together for the first time the case of the sporty Streamliner with a dial made of Vantablack (the blackest material in the world, which absorbs 99.99% of light like a black hole), a crown on the left, and a beautiful cylindrical tourbillon that takes center stage surrounded by absolute darkness. It's poetry for the wrist, a true triumph of design, ingenuity, and artistry. For "only" CHF 750,000 , we believe the lucky buyer is getting the best watch of the year, which we are also sure will end up being a future classic.
Congratulations to H. Moser and all the brands that donated their unique pieces and once again allowed us to enjoy this year's entertaining live auction, all for a worthy cause.
We can't wait for the 2022 litter!
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