LOFT Awards 2022: Part 1
Daniel PintoIn this article, we present the good, the bad, and the ugly of the watch world in 2022.
It was a truly spectacular year in terms of launches, with an optimistic post-Covid market, brands that dared to launch new models, and several moments that moved us to tears at being part of this little corner of the horological cosmos. It was truly difficult to choose the winners, and the debate within the LOFT team was intense and at times almost violent, but we're confident that these are the rightful winners of the 2022 LOFT Awards.
Breakthrough brand: Tudor
Throughout 2022, Tudor simply knocked us out with blow after blow from some of the best releases of the decade. Just consider that in just 12 months, it launched the Black Bay Pro and the Pelagos 39, watches that were contenders for Watch of the Year. As if that weren't enough, we've seen waiting lists and prices above retail in the secondary market for the BB Chrono, a panda-dial marvel that combines the best of a vintage Sub with a Paul Newman Daytona feel. Some might say Tudor is turning into a Rolex homage, but for us, it's its own thing, inspired by the crown, but with enough of its own heritage to maintain credibility. It's hard to find a brand these days that delivers so much technology, indestructible quality, and inspired design at this price point. Finally, the little brother is back in full force!
Best Collaboration: Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch
What more can be said about this watch? It was the launch that broke the internet and the only one that continues to generate buzz, and controversy, almost a year later. Some thought it would kill Omega, others thought it would be a passing fad, but at the end of the day, the MoonSwatch proved that it is possible to bring an iconic design to the masses, with a touch of pop culture, without harming either brand. Its case is the same as the Moonwatch , but its planetary inspiration and colors are the touch of genius that Swatch gave it to appeal to all tastes, with a flavor for everyone, and a nod to those who like to collect them all. A truly great product, with a price that invites you to try it, and a touch of "hype culture" that complete the perfect recipe for the best launch of 2022, and probably of the decade.
Most beautiful watch: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222
Much was said about Gerald Genta in this Royal Oak anniversary year, but for us, this little gem by Jorg Hysek was by far the most beautiful watch of the year. While we couldn't call it a new watch, as its design dates back to 1977, this watch left the collection in the mid-1980s and only today returned in glory and majesty to win the hearts of collectors at Watches & Wonders. Best of all, it maintains its perfect dimensions—37 millimeters wide, an ultra-thin case for a sports watch—with the sole exception of having replaced its movement with a state-of-the-art one. It's clear that good design is timeless. The case finish is our favorite detail, with a satin gold finish that is both subtle and stunning. Opulence and mystery combined. We'll probably never be able to buy one, but just handling one in person would be a dream come true for the entire LOFT team. We'll keep drooling.
Ugliest watch: Richard Mille RM UP-01
Much was expected of Richard Mille for its first collaboration with Ferrari. And with good reason. The latest chronographs designed in conjunction with McLaren sell for several times their list price on the secondary market, and the brand has been swooning over the wrists of the world's millionaires over the past decade. It seems like everything it makes is a guaranteed hit. However, when that Ferrari watch finally arrived, our mouths dropped open in amazement, but there were no sighs of love.
The reality is that, despite achieving a new record for thinness at 1.75 mm, the watch's design isn't entirely convincing and pales in comparison to other champions of slimness, such as the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo. The shape doesn't lend itself to such a thin case, and the overall packaging resembles a credit card or magnetic key strapped to the wrist. It's been the subject of multiple memes, and while we don't know how commercially successful it has been, we're sure the 150 units sold out as fast as a Ferrari, so good old Richard shouldn't be worried. We're hoping for something more attractive for the next release, perhaps something that bears some resemblance to a watch.
