The five best alternatives to the current Rolex GMT-Master II
Fernando AldeaAre there suitable replacements for the greatest icons of the watch world? This is the question one of Fratello's editors posed. In this article, we'll give our opinion on the five alternatives to the current Rolex GMT-Master II chosen by the "F."
According to Fratello —and we completely agree—the famous GMT-Master defined the GMT watch category. Many watches in the same class were inspired by the original that began the legacy in 1954. The challenge, then, is to see if there are real alternatives to the current GMT-Master II.
In the editor's words: "The original Rolex GMT-Master is one of the most iconic watches ever created. I love the Rolex travel watch because it spawned a whole category of watches that came after it. Beyond that, Crown released quite a few brilliant versions of the GMT-Master."
The author stated in the same watch publication’s Buying Guide to the Best Rolex Watches of the 1950s that the early GMT-Master reference 6542 was his favorite vintage Rolex, along with the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 , noting that the whole idea of a watch portraying the adventures and glamorous world of travel remains magical even seven decades later.
The modern GMT-Master II
The article notes: "But what's changed is the watch itself. I love a good vintage GMT-Master. I especially love this watch because it handles wear and tear so well. It's probably the only Rolex, and one of the few watches in general, that I love seeing all beat up, and it only seems to add to its charm." It adds: "The only GMT-Master I'd go for is the ref. 1675. It embodies the vintage world travel spirit I love so much, so I'd go for that. It's that charm I miss with the modern GMT-Master II ref. 126710."
https://content.rolex.com/dam/watches/family-pages/gmt-master-ii/video/the-rolex-way/professional_watches_gmt-master_ii_rolex_way_0001.mp4The "problem" lies in updating their best travel watch, now equipped with a ceramic bezel, which would have lost much of its original appeal. They consider it to have become a louder, flashier watch—which we consider positive—and they don't particularly like the red and blue tones used for the ceramic bezel—which, to us, is not only part of its distinction but also its charm. What is undeniable is that it remains an incredible watch with an incredible history, with the manufacturer raising the quality of the materials and movement to great levels.
If you're going to spend a lot of money on a watch, you have to be sure this is the watch for you. And as it stands, the "F" people's money would go to a vintage GMT-Master or an alternative. The question we're all asking is: is that possible? Let's see if their five choices are real alternatives to the current Rolex GMT-Master II.
Grand Seiko SBGJ237
The first watch on this list is a timepiece that many on the Fratello team, and also on the LOFT team, love. When the Grand Seiko SBGJ237 and SBGJ239 were dropped off at their offices for review, both watches made an immediate impression. The green dial of the SBGJ239 is sophisticated and elegant, while the SBGJ237's is sportier. A very suitable alternative to the GMT-Master II.
Spec-wise, the SBGJ237 is hard to beat. Even one editor, a Pepsi fanatic, admitted after holding the Grand Seiko in his hands that it's a better watch than the Rolex.
The SBGJ237 is larger than the GMT-Master II at 44.2 mm, but based on the experience of several users, it's not too big on the wrist. The watch comes with a comfortable bracelet with small polished links, but it's not necessarily to everyone's taste. We agree that we would have preferred a simpler Oyster-style bracelet. However, we all like the spectacular blue and white sapphire bezel, which glows spectacularly in the dark. A peculiar detail is that the daytime display runs from 6:30 AM to 5:30 PM.
Inside the box, Grand Seiko equipped the watch with the Hi-Beat caliber 9S86 . This great movement has 37 jewels and a 55-hour power reserve. At $7,800 , this is a great alternative to the Rolex GMT-Master II that offers great quality. The movement is superior and the workmanship is unmatched, making this a very tempting offer.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT
Omega doesn't have a huge selection of 24-hour GMT watches, but in the late 1990s, the brand made a brilliant GMT version of the Seamaster Professional 300M known as the "Great White." While the Great White had a white dial and silver bezel, it also came in a black dial version with a black and silver GMT bezel, which you can find these days for much less.
Omega decided to use a very similar color scheme for this Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT. Although Planet Ocean is far from Omega's most popular collection, it does feature standout pieces like the Deep Black and this model, thanks to its bidirectional black and white ceramic bezel.
Fratello writes: "In real life, however, in natural light, the ceramic bezel, ceramic dial, polished indexes and arrowhead hands make for an incredibly striking piece."
The watch features a stainless steel case measuring 43.5 mm in diameter and 17.1 mm thick. Despite its thick shape, the watch is only 49.5 mm high, making it very wearable. The thick case is water-resistant to 600 meters and comes equipped with a helium escape valve.
Omega equipped the watch with the 39-jewel Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8906 , which operates at 25,200 vph, has a 60-hour power reserve, and can withstand magnetic fields of at least 15,000 gauss. In short, this is a stunning piece, available for $8,800 , that will serve you well while traveling the world's skies and the great depths of the oceans.
Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570
This choice of the Rolex Explorer II might seem like a bit of a stretch. Technically, it's very similar to the GMT-Master II, and on top of that, it suffers from the same layer of unattainability . But Fratello didn't want to leave it out because I'd currently choose the Explorer II over the GMT-Master II. The reason is simple: it hasn't drastically changed its appearance and, therefore, hasn't lost its charm.
There are no ceramic bezels here that have changed the overall aesthetic, while the technical improvements are completely on par with the GMT-Master II. Last year, some people labeled it a rather boring update, but those at the "F" were happy to see the new Explorer II.
The watch features an updated 42mm case that is significantly sleeker than the previous one. On top of that, the Explorer II comes with the latest generation Oyster bracelet, which is a significant upgrade in quality and practicality thanks to its Easylink extension. Lastly, Rolex updated the movement to the caliber 3285 which has a 70-hour power reserve, a blue Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorbers, and an accuracy of ±2 seconds per day.
At $10,000 , it's theoretically $1,100 cheaper than the GMT-Master II. And practically, the Explorer II is one of the least-hyped Rolex watches. Note that the black-dial version is actually the one most "affordable" for its list price.
Tudor Black Bay GMT
According to Fratello, while Tudor has definitely increased its presence over the years, Rolex is simply in a different league regarding the brand's overall appeal. That said, the Black Bay GMT perfectly captures the vintage spirit that made the original GMT-Master such an iconic watch. This is the watch that has the Pan Am charm of the past. The Black Bay GMT was introduced at Baselworld 2018 to critical acclaim.
It features the 41mm case we're familiar with from the regular Black Bay models. It has a domed crystal, a screw-down crown, and 200 meters of water resistance. The outlet wryly notes that while the brand tried to convince us the colors harked back to Tudor models of the past, that's definitely not what people think of when they see the blue and red aluminum bezel.
Inside the case, the Tudor uses the certified MT5652 automatic movement, which runs at 28,800 vph, has 26 jewels, and a 70-hour power reserve. With a list price of $4,370 , a great movement, and equally attractive looks, it's hard to deny the Tudor a spot on this list.
Grand Seiko SBGJ201
Overall, it's safe to say that Grand Seiko has conquered the GMT world. Grand Seiko's European website lists a whopping 37 different GMT watches in its current collection. While the top pick for this list is visually closer to the Rolex GMT-Master II, this is likely a more popular choice when looking for a Grand Seiko GMT.
A Fratello editor owns a Grand Seiko SBGJ201 Mt. Iwate , and from seeing and wearing the watch, they can tell it’s a stunning timepiece. While less sporty and more formal in appearance than the GMT-Master II, it adapts to a wide range of different situations and makes for a great travel watch.
The SBGJ201 features a 40mm diameter, 14mm thick stainless steel case. It’s the famous 44GS -style case created with Tanaka ’s “Grammar of Design” in mind. Inside, Grand Seiko uses the same caliber 9S86 as in the sporty SBGJ237, which takes the number one spot on this list. The Hi-Beat movement is a joy to watch in action with its 36,000 vph operating frequency. It has a 55-hour power reserve and a date window at 3 o’clock, which is preferred over the SBGJ237’s crown and date window at 4 o’clock.
The iconic design, incredible movement, impeccable workmanship, and sheer versatility make this a great GMT and a serious option for many. At $7,250 , this is a great last option for this list.
Conclusions
After researching the options and writing this article, the folks at Fratello admit that it’s difficult to come up with five suitable alternatives to the current Rolex GMT-Master II. There are plenty of GMT watches out there, but there aren’t many great watches that can replace the iconic design and rich history of Rolex’s iconic travel watch. Some honorable mentions on this list are the Panerai Luminor GMT PAM 0188 , the Chopard LUC GMT One , and the Breitling Navitimer GMT 46. But while they’re great watches, they didn’t consider them better alternatives than the five chosen on this list, let alone great alternatives to the GMT-Master.
In his opinion—and ours as well—it's incredibly difficult to find an alternative to the current Rolex GMT-Master II. The best alternative, the author believes, would be a vintage GMT-Master, so a ref. 1675 remains on his list as the only option. But it's up to the readers. What do you think? Are the five options mentioned here really the best currently available? Tell us your alternatives to the current GMT-Master II. Comment and share!
Source: Fratello
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