Winners of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève – GPHG 2022
Fernando AldeaAwaited each year by watch professionals and enthusiasts alike, the 22nd Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève awards ceremony, poetically presented by Edouard Baer, took place on Thursday, November 10, at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva.
The GPHG Academy - which brings together 650 key figures in the profession from around the world - and the 2022 Jury, chaired by Nick Foulkes, saluted the excellence and expertise of watchmaking by awarding 21 prizes, including the famous "Aiguille d'Or" distinction for the best in show, which was awarded to MB&F for the Legacy Machine Sequential Evo watch.
The brands Akrivia, Bulgari, Grand Seiko, Ferdinand Berthoud, Grönefeld, H. Moser & Cie, Hermès, Krayon, MAD Editions, Parmigiani Fleurier, Sylvain Pinaud, TAG Heuer, Trilobe, Tudor, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Voutilainen also received one of the prestigious awards. The Special Jury Prize, which honors a key figure or institution in the world of watchmaking, was awarded this year to François Junod, automaton maker and sculptor.
The 90 nominated watches, including the winners, were on display at the Rath Museum in Geneva until November 20. The 2022 winners will also be presented in New York from December 1 to 4.
Below are the winners of the 2022 GPHG:
Grand Prix de l'Aiguille d'Or: MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo
Designed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, the LM Sequential EVO pushes the boundaries of the chronograph and rethinks the fundamental principles of chronograph construction.
The LM Sequential EVO features two complete chronographs, each with a large 60-second counter and a small 30-minute counter. Of course, each can be started, stopped, and reset completely independently, using the start/stop and reset pushers on their respective sides of the case. But this chronograph goes much further, thanks to the "Twinverter" pusher that acts as a binary switch, allowing for multiple timekeeping modes: split-second chronograph, lap timer, and even a "cumulative" mode like a chess game—a combination never before seen in a wristwatch.
https://youtu.be/Siae_NyQjL8The caliber incorporates two column-wheel chronographs, as well as two patented vertical clutches with internal jewels, which eliminate the amplitude and power reserve variations of conventional chronographs, whether activated or not. The caliber features the balance wheel typical of Legacy machines and superb hand-finished finishes: recessed angles that highlight the craftsmanship, polished angles, Geneva waves, hand-engraving, and blackened bridges (NAC treatment).
The EVO zirconium case – lighter than steel and stronger than titanium – offers water resistance up to 80 meters, a screw-down crown, an integrated rubber strap, black galvanic dials with Super-LumiNova and the "FlexRing" shock-absorbing system.
Prix de la Montre Femme: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic
It leaves no room for doubt; its affiliation is crystal clear. Slightly reduced in size, the new Tonda PF Automatique 36 mm retains the attributes of the brand's established signature: the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. Equipped with a newly manufactured, slightly reduced-size automatic movement, the Tonda PF Automatique 36 mm is the answer to those waiting for this model in a format adapted to a slimmer wrist.
This watch clearly preserves Parmigiani Fleurier's signature stylistic codes: a fluid and harmonious integration of the 18-carat rose gold case and bracelet, a knurled bezel, a minimalist dial with a fine guilloché pattern, and invisibly set baguette-cut diamond hour markers. A timepiece of understated elegance.
Prix de la Complication pour Femme: Hermès Arceau Le temps voyageur
This 38 mm steel Arceau offers a new world time display. The unique "traveling time" mechanism, developed exclusively for Hermès, displays 24 time zones via a circular disc and a moving counter. The exclusive 122-component module is housed in a 4.4 mm-thick case.
https://youtu.be/YMiNXTQaOEsA true technical and aesthetic challenge, the "Le temps voyageur" complication is integrated into the Hermès H1837 automatic mechanical movement.
Prix de la Montre Homme: Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II
AKRIVIA was established in Geneva in 2012, and for this tenth anniversary, founder and watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi unveils its newest addition, the Contemporary Chronometer II (RRCC II). It follows the award-winning Chronomètre Contemporain of 2018, with a familiar yet entirely new look. The Chronomètre Contemporain II inherits the style of its predecessor and follows the aesthetic line that has become AKRIVIA's signature. But it has its own character, expressed especially in the new caliber it houses, the RRCC02.
This RRCC02 represents the culmination of three years of development. At first glance, it's recognizable as an AKRIVIA caliber, with its symmetrical architecture and the high-end finishes already present in the first edition—if you're not careful, you might even mistake the two. The RRCC02, however, is a completely new construction, combining two barrels with the gear train, as well as an independent seconds hand with a stop and reset function. All functions not found in the first Chronomètre Contemporain.
https://youtu.be/zfPB8kfCWlgAKRIVIA was founded with the sole objective of producing watches in the grand tradition of authentic Swiss watchmaking, following the example of the high-quality houses long established in Geneva. A quest that has been consecrated with the Chronomètre Contemporain (RRCC I), winner of the Men's Watchmaking Prize at the 2018 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.
This first Chronomètre Contemporain already crystallized all the aspirations of its creator, Rexhep Rexhepi, which can be summed up as the artistic fusion of the legendary history of Swiss watchmaking and its future. A classic design and finish, subtly enhanced with contemporary touches. The dial, for example, is made of grand feu enamel, the standard material for 19th-century pocket watches, and is inspired by the sector dial, very popular in the 1930s and 1940s, but reinterpreted with a very contemporary spirit.
RRCC II takes the same principles and takes them a step further.
Prix de la Complication pour Homme: Hermès Arceau Le temps voyageur
This 41 mm diameter Arceau in platinum and titanium offers a new reading of world time.
The unique "travelling time" mechanism, developed exclusively for Hermès, displays 24 time zones via a circular disc and a moving counter.
https://youtu.be/0up3Vyu_SRQThe exclusive 122-component module is housed in a 4.4 mm-thick case. A true technical and aesthetic challenge, the "Le temps voyageur" complication is integrated into the Hermès H1837 self-winding mechanical movement.
Prix de la Montre Iconique: TAG Heuer Monaco X Gulf
The history of the Monaco Gulf began with a passion for top-level motorsports. The Gulf brand became an icon in the racing world thanks to its famous light blue and bright orange signature colors for the teams it sponsored.
During the golden age of motorsport in the 1960s and 1970s, its main partner was JW Automotive Engineering, best remembered for its participation in the 24 Hours of Le Mans, with overall victories in 1968, 1969 and 1975. The team also fielded some of the most famous drivers, such as Swiss driver Jo Siffert, in the legendary Porsche 917 in 1970 and 1971.
At the time, Jo Siffert was a friend of Heuer, one of the first ambassadors as we know them today, and also Steve McQueen's driving instructor for his film Le Mans. Thus was born the bond between Gulf, TAG Heuer, and Porsche: the Porsche 917 in Gulf colors with Jo Siffert at the wheel. This led to the partnership with Steve McQueen, who drove the same car in the legendary film and wore the Monaco on his wrist. All these elements combined make it easy to understand why this partnership is legendary, further intensifying the Monaco's iconic status.
https://youtu.be/wMHzfFkjnnYIn 2007, to honor this partnership, TAG Heuer decided to create a Monaco edition in Gulf colors, and since then, each watch in this special collection has been a huge success. These chronographs have become highly sought-after collector's items.
For the 2022 edition, TAG Heuer strikes again with an even more striking version of the Monaco Gulf Edition. More refined, with an elegant design, and featuring the in-house Heuer 02 movement housed in a finely brushed and polished steel case, the TAG Heuer Monaco Gulf Edition Spéciale is a real eye-catcher.
Prix du Tourbillon: H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton
Three-dimensional power. This is the expression that comes to mind when one discovers the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton by H. Moser & Cie. With this model, the Schaffhausen-based manufacture offers a new approach to its cylindrical tourbillon movement, in a skeletonized version that sets the standards for this H. Moser & Cie. expertise. Beneath a slightly domed sapphire crystal, echoed by the equally curved subdial enhanced with Globolight® monoliths, the 1-minute flying tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring catches the eye. A sculptural creation with a spectacular aesthetic, yet suitable for everyday wear thanks to its balanced proportions and 12 ATM water resistance.
H. Moser & Cie. cultivates the art of contrast. It deliberately opts for its Pioneer case, whose aesthetic, imbued with a modern and adventurous spirit, draws inspiration from the industrial world, to showcase its three-dimensional Manufacture HMC 811 caliber, designed as a true work of art. Entirely skeletonized, this large 34 mm diameter movement enhances the ballet of the 1-minute flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring located at 6 o'clock. Invented in the 18th century, the cylindrical hairspring rises perpendicularly around the upper axis of the balance wheel. Common in marine chronometers of the time, it has the advantage of developing concentrically. Thanks to the cylindrical hairspring, fitted with two Breguet curves at the two attachment points, friction of the pivots is reduced and isochronous properties are improved, especially if the hairspring is combined with a tourbillon, as is the case here. Today, the cylindrical balance spring is difficult to produce because it requires very specific knowledge and tools. The teams at Precision Engineering AG, a sister company of H. Moser & Cie, had to draw on this expertise, as each cylindrical balance spring is molded by hand, which takes ten times longer than a traditional balance spring.
https://youtu.be/WWIkvcxbyHsAt 12 o'clock, a small domed subdial follows the curvature of the sapphire crystal and displays the brand's signature color, Smoked Funky Blue . In white, the H. Moser & Cie. logo is discreet, while the indexes are more voluminous. Made from Globolight®, a ceramic-based material containing Super-LumiNova®, they reinforce the three-dimensional character of this creation, as do the inserts on the top of the hour and minute hands, also in Globolight®.
The new HMC caliber 811 is presented here in a skeletonized version, both on the front and back, where a large, fully openworked gold rotor oscillates. The beauty of this movement is exacerbated by the lightness of the flying tourbillon, which rotates delicately beneath the sapphire crystal. The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton marks an important step for H. Moser & Cie. in entering the skeleton watch segment and defining its own skeletonization codes.
The Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton is easily adjustable and comes with a black alligator leather strap, but can also be worn with a steel, rubber, textile, or kudu leather strap. Spectacular, this creation with a powerful and racy aesthetic is nevertheless easy to live with thanks to its 15.3 mm thickness. Water-resistant to 12 ATM, it can be worn with a shirt, for sports, or even for adventure.
Prix de la Montre Calendrier et Astronomie: Krayon Anywhere
What if knowing the exact time of sunrise or sunset, in a place chosen only by you, were possible? Your place. Anywhere on the planet. Krayon once again creates a first in watchmaking. Anywhere is the time of our relationship with the earth.
Krayon's second creation, Anywhere, indicates the length of the day and the time of sunrise and sunset. Krayon presents a new interpretation of its flagship complication, with the level of hand-finishing expected in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Anywhere defines a bespoke geographical and temporal space. In this way, Krayon adapts to the most intimate desires and secrets of its wearer, reconnecting them with the powerful rhythms of nature.
Time is experienced personally. But for watchmakers, it is above all a dimension of space that can be objectively measured. Krayon Anywhere unites these two aspects through the complication that is its raison d'être, that moment when day and night transition into one another, the moment of sunrise and sunset.
https://youtu.be/-kiXS4ZoiQkBy providing this information, Krayon Anywhere is the horological answer to a philosophical problem. What makes it unique? The watch displays the anniversaries at a point on the globe chosen by the wearer. It could be where they live, where they come from, where their family is, or where their dreams are concentrated. These moments and places that matter are never included in a standard watch, not even in a classic complication. These essential elements are intimate data, defined within the circle of those close to them and in memory.
Thus, the most decisive moment of a day is when the sun rises or sets, when nature awakens, dawn, or falls asleep again with darkness, when it approaches its pristine state and allows itself to be approached. It is the time when animals drink, fish feed, and wild animals hunt. It is the time of our relationship with the earth.
This emotional dimension of time and space, at the intersection of intimate and concrete geography, is Krayon's vocation. His interpretation of time takes the form of a clock that transcends conventions and habits. It's like mornings and evenings, never identical, always experienced personally. Anywhere's large peripheral ring divides the day into two parts, following its rhythm and that of the wearer. As the days change, so do their length and color, and with them the clock face.
Prix de l'Exception Mécanique: Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1
The Chronomètre FB RSM is a groundbreaking complication developed in the grand tradition of watchmaking apprenticeship. This tourbillon regulator with a fusion chain transmission integrates, for the first time, a stop-seconds mechanism as well as an independent dead-seconds mechanism. The latter was developed with a young watchmaking apprentice, who wrote his final thesis on it.
The design of the FB RSM Chronometer is inspired by the Horloge Marine N°8, known as the HM8, manufactured by Ferdinand Berthoud in 1768. This watch has a "regulator" -type display, meaning the hours, minutes, and seconds are not coaxial. This type of display made it possible to better read the time and thus serve as a reference for measurements for navigation at sea: this is the function of the watch in the truest sense of the word.
The FB-T.FC-RSM caliber features a patented, pillar-driven architecture in which both the barrel and the inverted fuselage are suspended. This fusion-chain mechanism is inspired by that of Ferdinand Berthoud's marine chronometers. It ensures energy distribution by delivering a "constant force" to the patented direct-drive second tourbillon.
https://youtu.be/WFEUeESdRRgIn its display and operation, the FB RSM Chronometer brings this notion of a "regulator" into the modern era. The hours can be read via a rotating disc at 2 o'clock; the minutes are indicated at 12 o'clock; and, as a symbol of precision, the seconds hand occupies a central position on the dial. This caliber is enriched with the "SM" designation, which stands for "Second Morte," as well as a stop-balance that stops the tourbillon when the time is set to the exact second.
Following the tradition cherished by Ferdinand Berthoud, this complication was developed by a young apprentice watchmaker who dedicated his final thesis to it: in his work, he brought together the history of stopwatches, the identification of patents, and the development of the complication for the Tourbillon Régulateur à Force Constante caliber that was to house it. Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud also wanted this complication to fit the existing dimensions of the caliber, while guaranteeing chronometric performance duly certified by the COSC.
Creating a dead-second is a significant challenge for any watch aiming for chronometric certification. Stopping and restarting the central hand in one-second increments involves three steps: halting the gearing in question, storing the torque it continues to produce during this pause, and suddenly releasing it after one second. Since the regularity of the torque is the essence of a constant-force caliber, interrupting its flow 60 times per minute without compromising its linearity is a technical feat, which is why most non-force movements fail to achieve COSC certification. The FB RSM chronometer bears this certification and is therefore, like the master watchmaker's marine clocks, a true timepiece.
Prix de la Montre Chronographe: Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantale
Bart and Tim Grönefeld, also known as "the watchmaking brothers," have produced several watches with various complications. The Grönograaf 1941 is their first chronograph. True to Grönefeld's philosophy, this new model incorporates several ingenious details. Equipped with a column wheel and a side-mounted clutch, the caliber G-04 adheres to watchmaking tradition. With 408 hand-decorated parts, the Grönograaf 1941 makes no compromises when it comes to quality materials.
Aware of classic mechanical limitations, the Grönograaf offers a "soft reset" that prevents premature wear of the hammer, heart, and hand components. It is a centrifugal regulator located at 4 o'clock, a mechanism commonly found in minute repeaters. The regulator contains two solid gold weights. When the reset pusher is pressed, the regulator springs to life, offering an unparalleled mechanical ballet. On the dial side, the counter hands lead the dance, delicately returning to zero. Depending on the position of the heart-shaped cams connected to the hands, the minute and second hands rotate clockwise or counterclockwise.
The winding system is equipped with a bevel gear to ensure smooth winding. The hammers are fitted with ruby rollers for longer life. Furthermore, the balance spring, with its Philips terminal curve, improves isochronism, allowing the balance spring to breathe more concentrically. Assembled on a circular-grained plate, the pieces are highlighted by hand-finished stainless steel bridges. Furthermore, the bridges have a frosted center, circular graining on the top, and various relief engravings. The hearts, chronograph bridge, bezels, and screws are polished black on a pewter plate. Every detail is designed to accentuate their refinement.
https://youtu.be/-FzBIbdNSR8In 2016, Bart and Tim launched the 1941 Remontoire, paying tribute to their father, Sjef, by referencing the year of his birth. The model's 39.5 mm case was later used for the Principia Automatic and the Decennium Tourbillon. With the arrival of the Grönograaf 1941, the winding 1941 case returns, albeit slightly larger, this time measuring 40 mm in diameter. Grönefeld inaugurates the Grönograaf 1941 with a limited edition of 25 pieces. In the "Premiere Edition" , this mechanical masterpiece is housed in a tantalum case. The polished case offers a blue-gray color combined with anti-corrosion qualities and increased hardness.
The hours and minutes appear on an asymmetrical dial. The lancet -shaped hour, minute, and second hands are flamed and the centers are mirror-polished, in keeping with watchmaking tradition. The minute and second counters feature Breguet-style hands and a rare complication: an instantaneous minute counter. A permanent second appears at 9 o'clock. Designed for everyday use, the Grönograaf 1941 is equipped with a power-reserve indicator. This triangular hand appears to float alongside a track, indicating the condition of the mainspring.
The Breguet-style seconds hand, in dialogue with a clearly marked railway track on the rim, makes it easy to read. The Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf is the culmination of three generations of watchmaking passion and expertise.
Prix de la Montre de Plongée: Tudor Pelagos FXD
Developed with the help of French Navy combat swimmers, the Pelagos FXD model is based on a specific yet demanding specification. It therefore includes many functional elements that are new to TUDOR, starting with its fixed bracelet bars, machined from the mass of the 42 mm diameter titanium case to increase robustness and reliability. Profiled along the extension of the lugs, they greatly contribute to the model's distinctive silhouette. Another specific feature of this model is its 120-degree rotating bezel. Bidirectional and with retrograde graduations from 60 to 0, it does not comply with the ISO 6425:2018 standard for diving watches, but meets the specific requirements of the technique known as "successive course navigation" —one of the specialties of combat swimmers.
Aesthetically, the Pelagos FXD model follows the tradition of TUDOR diving watches historically used by the French Navy. It is navy blue and features the brand's signature square indexes and angular hands introduced in 1969 to enhance the luminescence of its watches in low-light conditions. It also features a rotating bezel with a sandblasted ceramic insert whose graduations are also filled with luminous material. Its 42 mm diameter titanium case is water-resistant to 200 meters and has a fully satin-finished finish for a matte effect that limits light reflections. To underline the official nature of this watch, the case back bears the brand's "Marine nationale" logo, composed of an anchor surmounted by a bachi, as well as a historically inspired "MN21" engraving for "Marine nationale 2021."
https://youtu.be/UqAv_b0xPhwAesthetically, the Pelagos FXD model follows the tradition of TUDOR diving watches historically used by the French Navy. It is navy blue and features the brand's signature square indexes and angular hands introduced in 1969 to enhance the luminescence of its watches in low-light conditions. It also features a rotating bezel with a sandblasted ceramic insert whose graduations are also filled with luminous material.
Its 42 mm diameter titanium case is water-resistant to 200 meters and has a fully satin-finished finish for a matte effect that limits light reflections. To underline the official nature of this watch, the case back bears the brand's "Marine nationale" logo, composed of an anchor surmounted by a bachi, as well as a historically inspired engraving "MN21" for "Marine nationale 2021" .
Prix de la Montre Joaillerie: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewelery
Powered by the in-house developed Piccolissimo microcaliber, one of the smallest mechanical movements ever created, the rose gold Serpenti Misteriosi secret watch combines exceptional craftsmanship, mastery of decorative elements, and Swiss watchmaking expertise. This mesmerizing jewelry creation envelops the wrist with unique undulations and is accompanied by turquoise elements, brilliant-cut diamonds, and two bewitching rubellite eyes: a celebration of the passage of time.
https://youtu.be/DXsuh-AJjrsSerpenti Misteriosi Haute Joaillerie secret watch with a self-winding mechanical micro-movement – calibre BVL 100 – measuring 12.30 mm in diameter, 2.5 mm thick, weighing 1.30 g, with a power reserve of 30 hours and a frequency of 21,600 VpH (3 Hz). 40 mm case in 18K rose gold and bracelet decorated with turquoise elements, brilliant-cut diamonds and two pear-cut rubellite eyes, dial set with diamonds.
Prix de la Montre Métiers d'Art: Voutilainen Ji-Ku
One of the most famous lacquerware studios in the world is Kitamura, which creates works of art that stand at the height of Japanese tradition. This skill has existed for hundreds of years and is an excellent vehicle for values such as the soul, spirit, and identity of Japanese culture during the Edo period. This highly skilled work allows us to imagine the commitment required, both on a human level and on an aesthetic and technical level. It is easy to imagine the patience and dedication the creator showed in creating this masterpiece. The masterpiece depicted here uses lacquerware techniques that require over a thousand hours of work to create the dial. The raw materials used for its production are Kinpun (gold dust), Jyunkin-itakane (gold leaf), Yakou-gai (green turban-shaped shell), and Awabi-gai (New Zealand abalone shell).
https://youtu.be/niE6Gjdwg6wWith this unique piece, Kari Voutilainen has achieved a harmonious symbiosis between Japanese tradition and Swiss fine watchmaking. This unique, entirely handcrafted piece offers a magnificent look that perfectly harmonizes East and West.
Prix de la Petite Aiguille: Trilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition
The design of this creation favors minimalism and plays with perceptions. The elegant grained dial defies symmetrical forms and is crafted in four parts, three of which are constantly rotating. Raw and stripped down, this unstructured dial opens three distinct windows: the larger hour ring; the minute wheel, which appears within an opening; and the seconds wheel, which alternates between a clous de Paris center and a blue ring.
The intertwining of the minutes and seconds offers a glimpse of infinity and the endless passage of time, within a band with satin and polished finishes. A nod to this time set in motion, always counterclockwise. An X-Centric concept of watchmaking highly appreciated by Trilobe.
https://youtu.be/X03-n3vTQYgFor lovers of the retro-chic look of the 1930s, this edition of Dune marks the resurgence of a fiery and extravagant hue. Underscoring and enhancing the infinity symbol through a contrast of colors, the grained Dune dial awakens like grains of sand in a desert illuminated by a radiant sun.
Designed for a grade 5 titanium case, the Dune edition of the Nuit Fantastique collection pays tribute to the purity of Trilobe design.
Prix Challenge: MAD Editions MAD1 Red
For 17 years, MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser has been creating innovative watchmaking machines that are as complex as they are limited... but Max has also been working on a parallel project for several years: creating a more accessible machine, under a different label (MAD Editions), but always with the MB&F touch of madness. The result: MAD1.
The original MAD1 launched in 2021 was recognizable by its blue detailing; it was offered exclusively to MB&F suppliers, the "Friends" , and to members of " The Tribe " , the brand's owners' club. However, feedback on the MAD1 has been so positive that a new version has been promised for 2022, this time available to a wider audience: the MAD1 RED.
The MAD1 RED is built on the same platform as the original MAD1, with the same innovative case structure. It has the same side-mounted time display, with two rotating cylinders for the hours and minutes. The modified Miyota Reverse movement, selected for its unidirectional winding (essential for easy, high-speed rotation), is driven by a three-bladed titanium and tungsten winding rotor, the star of the show—especially when the Super-LumiNova comes into play! But the MAD1 RED also has its own characteristics: the original blue has been swapped for cherry red, the bezel surrounding the rotor is slightly thinner, and winding and time setting are now done with a more classic round crown.
https://youtu.be/65uQggKD3TcMAD1 RED was first offered to fans who took the time to write in and email after the 2021 launch. Once these priority orders were confirmed, the remaining MAD1 RED coins were allocated through a lottery open to all over a two-week period in March-April 2022. During these two weeks, over 20,000 people entered the lottery.
Deliveries of the MAD1 RED tickets began in April and will continue until the end of 2022. The first deliveries are going to the priority list (people who have submitted an email), followed by lottery winners, expected between September and December.
Prix de l'Horloge Mécanique: Van Cleef & Arpels Automate Fontaine Aux Oiseaux
Extraordinary Objects Collection, Bird Fountain automaton, yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, colored sapphires, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, mandarin garnets, amethysts, diamonds, lapis lazuli, turquoise, chalcedony, rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, vegetable lacquer, lacquer, enamel, eggshell marquetry, ebony, crystal, aluminum, steel, black PVD, goatskin, automatic and mechanical movements, 12-hour/minute retrograde function, on-demand animation, on-demand music, bellows and beech wood.
Combining on-demand animation and retrograde time display, this creation offers a double spectacle. On the edge of the base, a feather progressively moves along the time scale. Once the twelve hours have elapsed, it returns to its starting point to begin its course again for the next half-day. When activated—up to five times in a row—the automaton comes to life for approximately one minute, revealing a moving scene. The water in the pond begins to ripple like a gentle breeze as the various elements come into motion. A water lily opens its petals while a dragonfly flutters and sways slightly. The birds on the edge of the fountain awaken, their songs resonating thanks to a bellows and a clapper box that imitate the sounds of chirping and beaks respectively. They raise their heads and flap their wings to begin their courtship. They join in the song, their articulated legs rising one after the other in a surprisingly lifelike movement. Once the scene is over, the dragonfly rests, the birds return to their places, and the lily pad gracefully closes.
https://youtu.be/ZYKXzypceCIThis spectacle is made possible by the collaboration of accomplished artisans—automatons, jewelers, setters, lacquers, enamelers, and lapidaries—who have captured the grace of nature in the finest materials.
Prix de l'Innovation: Van Cleef & Arpels Montre Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier
Lady Arpels Flower Hours Cerisier watch, rose gold, white gold, yellow and white diamonds, pink sapphires, white mother-of-pearl, miniature painting, self-winding mechanical movement with flower-shaped hour display and side minute display.
To pay homage to the nature that has fascinated it since 1906, the House was inspired by the concept of the floral clock (Horologium Florae), conceived by Carl von Linné in his book Philosophia Botanica in 1751. In it, the Swedish botanist evokes a hypothetical garden plan composed of a wide variety of plants whose flowers open and close at specific times of the day, thus indicating the time. Van Cleef & Arpels has taken up this principle to create two new creations, the Lady Arpels Heures Florales and Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier clocks.
Its three-dimensional dials poetically represent the passage of time by opening and closing 12 corollas. Reading the time becomes a spectacle, as the flowers open and close, renewing the dial landscape every 60 minutes. To bring the dial to life, up to 166 elements are animated by a module entirely developed by the artisans of the Van Cleef & Arpels watchmaking workshops in Geneva.
https://youtu.be/P0w4esrOu-gEach petal in this garden is articulated and attached to the clock mechanism, which requires meticulous assembly work. In addition to the technical challenge of combining so many elements, it was necessary to enable the flowers to open in three different sequences. At each change of hour, the open flowers close to make way for a new combination. The following day, the sequence of bouquets will be different. In this way, the eye is entertained with new surprises, seeking the measurement of time from bud to corolla. Reading the hour is completed with the indication of the minutes, visible in an opening on the edge of the case.
Prix de l'Audace: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary
The Octo Finissimo Ultra, with a total thickness of 1.80 mm, represents the eighth consecutive world record, unveiled on March 21, 2022. This feat expresses the desire to push boundaries and play with extremes. Featuring a monochromatic look in sandblasted titanium, this watch is accompanied by an extra-thin case with an integrated bracelet just 1.50 mm thick, whose dial reveals the depth of the mechanism. A unique engraved QR code provides a connection to an NFT and the metaverse, linking the mechanical world with the digital dimension.
https://youtu.be/kp7_p1tfM8MThe Ultra Finissimo Ultra's extra-thin mechanical movement is hand-wound, with regulator indication, calibre BVL180, 28,800 VpH (4 Hz) and has a power reserve of 50 hours. Its 40 mm case (1.80 mm thick) is made of sandblasted titanium, the mainplate is made of tungsten carbide, the hour and minute regulator, the black PVD hands, the seconds wheel with black index, the stainless steel winding and time-setting gear, the stainless steel pawl engraved with a unique QR code associated with an exclusive NFT creation, and the sandblasted titanium bracelet with integrated folding clasp. Limited edition of 10 pieces.
Prix de la Chronométrie: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is Grand Seiko's first mechanical complication watch. It is equipped with a unique and innovative movement, Caliber 9ST1, which, for the first time in watchmaking history, combines a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism in a single block rotating on the same axis. Integrating the two mechanisms on the same axis allows the torque from the constant-force mechanism to be transmitted to the balance wheel without any loss or variation, thereby improving energy efficiency and achieving a level of precision and stability never before seen in Grand Seiko mechanical watchmaking.
The 9ST1 caliber sets a new standard for precision, the Grand Seiko Standard Constant-force, which requires each movement to be tested for 48 hours in each of six positions and at three temperatures—twice as long as any other Grand Seiko watch and current industry standards. Each movement is evaluated for accuracy over a period of 34 days. Once the tests are completed and the criteria are met or exceeded, its performance characteristics are attested by a certificate that accompanies each watch.
The watch is called Kodo, which means "heartbeat" in Japanese, in reference to the unique motion of the two mechanisms and the rhythmic sound they produce. The inner tourbillon cage rotates smoothly while the balance wheel oscillates with perfect regularity (8 vibrations per second), and the outer cage powerfully follows its rotation at exact one-second intervals to create a precise rhythm that, in musical terminology, is similar to a sixteenth note. This powerful yet mellow tone is made possible by the 9ST1's frequency, the highest ever achieved—as of February 2022, according to studies conducted by Grand Seiko—by a constant-force mechanism.
https://youtu.be/Jbzz00jSZuYThe case's line and profile are entirely in keeping with Grand Seiko's design heritage. However, the watch makes use of some bold designs, such as the creation of openwork on the inside of the lugs. The case is made of 950 platinum and "hard bright titanium," Grand Seiko's signature alloy for lasting beauty. Some parts of the case, made of both materials, are polished using the Zaratsu process, while others have a brushed finish. Both processes require the skilled hand of master craftsmen to reveal perfect harmony from every angle.
The Kodo comes with a specially treated calfskin strap, made from an extremely durable material called "Himeji Kurozan" leather, formerly used to make samurai armor. The strap's surface is hand-painted with Urushi lacquer in a multi-layered process that gives it a delicate and unique sheen.
Although this extraordinary timepiece is, in every respect, a new departure for Grand Seiko watchmaking, the practicality and legibility for which Grand Seiko is known remain present in every detail. The constant-force cage has a ruby on one arm, which acts as a seconds hand. The watch is equipped with a device to stop the rotation of the tourbillon cage, activated by pulling out the crown. This allows the time to be set precisely to the second. An additional facet cut into the tip of the hour hand enhances legibility. Finally, Kodo offers water resistance of up to 10 bar (10 bar).
Prix Révélation Horlogère: Sylvain Pinaud Origine
A watch created as a tribute to the finest achievements in watchmaking. The primary intention is to create a delicate harmony; the graphic composition of the entire piece is enhanced by the unique asymmetrical arrangement of the dial, which shares the spotlight with the elegantly positioned regulator on the front. This original solution creates a lively scene that is an irresistible invitation to explore the movement.
The silver dial, of rare complexity, plays with contrasts and finishes to offer perfect legibility. Particular attention has been paid to the design of the hand-finished rose gold hands, which indicate the time immediately and precisely. The dial stands out for its polished steel cartouche, which accentuates its depth and contrast. The unique combination of colors and finishes creates a spectacular image, highlighting the large balance wheel, enhanced by the finely polished rose gold bridges and matching hands.
Every element of the watch is harmonized with the round lines of the case and the gracefully curved lugs, which embody classic elegance and offer great comfort to all wrists. An elegant timepiece that can be worn every day.
The movement's construction was uncompromising in terms of reliability and chronometry. The design and manufacture of the components are designed to ensure a long lifespan and impeccable precision for centuries to come. A large variable-inertia balance wheel, along with its Phillips balance spring, allows for precise adjustment and a beating rate of 21,600 rpm.
https://youtu.be/T8JwY97FR6cPaired with a mainspring that provides high torque, the movement offers stable timekeeping with a long 55-hour power reserve. The Swiss lever escapement has also been developed in-house to ensure perfect operation within the movement's original architecture. When the crown is pulled out, the stop lever stops the balance wheel. It allows precise time setting, thanks to a robust and comfortable mechanism. Only traditional materials in their simplest form are used in this movement. The plate and bridges are nickel silver. And to highlight them, the bridges of the regulating organ are made of finely polished gold.
The Origine is a watch for the most discerning collectors. The movement is on par with a watch of this caliber and meets the demands of purists. The exceptional level of decoration naturally applies to all movement parts, which are extensively finished and handcrafted to the highest standards. This is why the words "Hand Made" are inscribed on the dial. The bridges are grained or polished black and beveled with reentrant angles. The wheels are all ringed or sunburst, and the arms are chamfered. All the milling of the jewels and screws is polished.
