Status of the best microbrands and independents in 2024

Independent brands like Baltic and Christopher Ward offer original designs and quality at fair prices, while Urwerk leads the way in high-end watchmaking with its cutting-edge designs and unique complications.

If there's one corner of the watchmaking universe that's dynamic, vibrant, and innovative, it's undoubtedly the independent brands. Without corporate ties, without marketing budgets, and without a "legacy" to respect, these brands have managed to reinvent the design codes and even the value proposition of what a watch can offer. In 2024, more than ever, we see the most entertaining products coming from these brands, both in the entry-level segment and in the most artistic and elevated watchmaking. Here, we focus on the brands we believe deserve attention in each of their categories, those we believe will be key players this year and beyond, whether for their design, innovation in complications, or simply for perfectly understanding what collectors are looking for and delivering it at the right price.

Let's start with two that have established themselves in the last year: Baltic and Christopher Ward have gained recognition for their popular but non-derivative designs, quality craftsmanship, complications, and fair prices. These brands have successfully combined vintage aesthetics with modern, sometimes very modern, technology, attracting both long-time collectors and new watch enthusiasts. Baltic, known for its retro-inspired dive watches (and now its new race chrono), has received praise for the attention to detail and elegance of its new dress models, while still respecting their high value. Christopher Ward, on the other hand, continues to push the boundaries of what's possible in the entry-level segment with its Bel Canto minute repeater and its titanium skeletonized caliber The Twelve, both priced under $5,000. These brands have already hit the nail on the head regarding what their audience wants, and they're sure to continue exploring that path in 2024 with new surprises.

Moving on to emerging microbrands, Furlan Marri and Ming Watches have captured the attention of the watchmaking community primarily due to the strength of their design. Very innovative in the case of Ming, and very traditional in the case of Furlan Marri. Ming Watches has managed to combine its creator's artistic talent with technical expertise, creating complicated watches with creative use of luminous materials that are both visually striking and mechanically impressive. Furlan Marri has grown in the last year, bringing its first mechanical chronograph, a popular favorite, as it embodies that mid-century design, classic size, but modern robustness. It's clear that the brand's owners are seasoned collectors. These two brands are sure to have a spectacular launch in 2024 to continue building their cult status. It won't be at a very affordable price, but it will be incredibly coveted by collectors and will catapult them to the next level.

Finally, let's look at the "heavyweights" of the segment. We're no longer talking about microbrands, but independent brands focused on the highest level of craftsmanship and innovation. Watchmaking elevated to the highest level, now as art and not an object for measuring time. Simon Brette emerged from nowhere last year with his first creation and has caused a stir. A watch with an exquisite traditional look but with modern decoration techniques, executed with a level of perfection rarely seen from such a young watchmaker. Without a doubt, 2024 will be the year when he debuts new iterations of this model and may attract a larger collector base, as the first one is produced in fewer than 20 pieces.

On the other side of the aesthetic spectrum, Urwerk represents the pinnacle of modern, complicated independent watchmaking, known for its avant-garde designs, intricate complications, and retro-futuristic cases that look like they've stepped straight out of a Giger illustration. They've gained a cult following for these futuristic designs and innovative complications, like their atomic clock, pushing the boundaries of what's possible in watchmaking. This year, we're sure they'll release a new addition to the collection that will leave us all in shock. Its price and design aren't for everyone, but those who value cutting-edge design and pushing the boundaries of what's possible will greatly appreciate the work of Baumgarter and his team at Urwerk, which each year continues to establish itself as a major player in its category and demonstrates to the larger brands that it's possible to be both different and successful.