Rolex Submariner: An underwater treasure
Fernando AldeaWith a simple design and superior water resistance, the Rolex Submariner became a symbol of adventure for aquatic and terrestrial explorers alike. Let's take a look at how this diving watch, launched in 1953, transformed into the world's most coveted timepiece.
Origins of the icon
When the decree creating the State Bank was signed in Chile and our national team took second place in the first women's basketball world championship in 1953, the first Rolex Submariner was launched in the remote and beautiful Helvetia, Switzerland, for friends. A milestone in the history of watchmaking, it was one of the first truly waterproof diving watches, specifically designed for use underwater. A magnificent timepiece capable of withstanding depths of up to 100 meters initially, a figure that, with time and technical advances, has increased to 300 meters today. The "Sub" was a direct response to the growing popularity of diving as a sport and professional activity, meeting the demands of increasingly demanding divers. And as if that weren't enough, in 1962, the Submariner was forever imprinted on celluloid on Sean Connery's wrist in "Dr. No" , the first James Bond film, cementing its new status as a cultural icon.
The Submariner's design was innovative not only in technological terms but also in aesthetics. Its unidirectional rotating bezel and triple-security crown, along with a highly legible dial thanks to its contrast and luminescence, made this watch a fantastic tool for any type of dive. Its early adoption by military units and underwater explorers, such as the legendary Jacques-Yves Cousteau, captain of the equally famous Calypso, also contributed greatly to its popularity. As the Submariner's fame grew, it became a symbol not only of adventure but also of prestige, appearing on the wrists of office workers and celebrities. This duality of being a tool watch and a status symbol has been key to its durability and success.
Design Fundamentals
One of the key design features of the Rolex Submariner is that it has nailed both the functional and aesthetic aspects. It is a simple watch, with a primarily black dial contrasted by prominent luminescent markers, distinctively contrasting hands, and a magnifying date window that simplifies reading the time and date anytime, anywhere. This ensures uncompromising legibility, which is essential for diving. Over the years, Rolex has indulged itself in introducing new variations, including models with or without a date, and different color and material combinations, such as the famous "Hulk" with a green dial and bezel, obviously especially for those with a irascible temperament.
Rolex has overlooked no detail in the design of the Submariner: ultra-resistant sapphire crystal, a Triplock triple-sealed crown, an Oyster bracelet with a safety clasp and Glidelock extension system (for adjusting the watch over a latex suit), and much more. These increasingly expensive features, combined with a highly precise, in-house automatic movement, make the Submariner unbeatable in its field.
This Rolex canvas has continually evolved since its launch. The most recent models incorporate the Cerachrom bezel, made of ceramic that even the Hulk couldn't scratch, and the caliber 3235 movement, an engine that will outlast us, almost certainly maintaining brutal precision. These innovations are part of the constant improvement process to which Rolex has accustomed us, but it's remarkable that it does so while maintaining such a consistent design, so solid in every aspect: dimensions, materials, functionality, technology, aesthetics. This is most likely the reason for its overwhelming success.
Influence on the industry
Despite not being the first diving watch, the Submariner set the definitive standard, creating the blueprint that the entire watch industry would follow, setting the expectations for what a sports watch should be, perform, and endure. The integration of functionality with a simple, yet elegant, even sophisticated design has allowed the Submariner to transcend its original use as a diving tool to become a symbol of style. Celebrities, athletes, and explorers chose it for its reliability and timeless design, which has kept it more than relevant in the luxury watch market for decades.
As is often the case in the watch industry, the Submariner's influence has spread to other brands, inspiring many manufacturers to create their own versions. Its design has been a model to follow, and its success has demonstrated, from a very early stage, the commercial viability of high-end sports watches. Furthermore, the Submariner's presence in films, on the wrists of iconic characters like James Bond, has helped consolidate its image as a watch that combines elegance with action—extremely valued in our hyperkinetic age.
The latter is an undeniable example of the Submariner's cultural impact since its launch. There is no brand in the world that doesn't have its version of the Submariner, no Chinese or Turkish factory that doesn't make its clones. The desire for this watch is so great that it can't be satisfied with the Submariners produced by Rolex. There's an explanation for this desire: it's much more common to see it on the wrists of senior executives than on professional divers (who currently rely on much more powerful wrist-mounted laptops), and this has to do with its status as a symbol of achievement, of economic success, of a milestone reached. For many, there's no better symbol of success than a Rolex Submariner.
Present and legacy
For all the reasons stated above, the Submariner remains, along with the Daytona, Rolex's most recognized and coveted model. Regularly updated with the latest technologies and the most advanced materials, the Submariner continues to set the standard in terms of functionality and style in diving watches, of course, but also in sports watches in general. Its enduring presence in popular culture and its acceptance in fine watchmaking circles, breaking records from time to time, speak to a legacy that goes beyond its mere functionality. The Submariner is already a collector's item, part of watchmaking history, a companion for a lifetime, or lifetimes, passed from one generation to the next. An investment that grows over time, something reserved only for great watches.
The Submariner's legacy is assured by its ability to adapt to the times without losing its essence. Its iconic design has made it the watch of choice for thieves around the world, unfortunately, but because it's unmistakable from a distance. Despite that, there are many of us who are willing to risk bravely wearing a Submariner anywhere, anytime, because when it comes to icons, there's no bigger one. We hope Rolex will deliver new variations in the near future; we want more options, perhaps more sizes? A diameter closer to the early Submariners, without crown guards, would be interesting. Why not? Dreaming costs nothing. The dream of the Submariner costs a lot.
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