The watch is the new Haute Couture

Gone are the days when suits and dresses were the true stars of the red carpet. Today, the undisputed star is the watch. In this article, we analyze how fine watchmaking is replacing haute couture at the most glamorous events on the planet, from the Met Gala to the Oscars.

I still don't know if the phenomenon I'm about to describe is 100% real and objective, or if it's a product of my distorted perception, attributable to spending more than 10 years working daily in the wonderful world of luxury watchmaking. Social media gives every little niche of pop culture its safe space and tribe, with much greater visibility than in the pre-Instagram era, exacerbating the notion that something "is everywhere," when in reality it's a product of the algorithm exacerbating your tastes and interests. Therefore, what follows is my 100% subjective point of view supported by 100% circumstantial evidence, but one that I'm sure 100% of those who enjoy horology will agree with.

Today I can say with absolute certainty that the watch is the lord and master of the red carpet, at each and every one of the world's most important social events. The Met Gala, the Oscars, Cannes, the Golden Globes, the BAFTAs, the Grammys... Today, we're all very focused on looks thanks to social media, and the common factor is that the vast majority of celebrities have made the watch the centerpiece of their outfits, with all that entails. Goodbye dresses, hello watch.

But what does it imply?

What's happening is that Hollywood A-listers are looking for special, truly special watches for these occasions. Sometimes, they have an unlimited budget. We're talking Piaget watches with lapis lazuli dials from the 1970s, tiny Omega watches for women with rhinestones from the 1920s and LeCoultre movements, or even unique custom-made pieces. We've previously seen beautiful watches on the red carpet, the timeless classics, mainly the result of brand partnerships and placements. What we see today, with close-up detail, is something very different. Today, it's clear that the celebrity—or perhaps their stylist—is putting the watch over the dress as the main piece of the look. This has led them to start looking for pieces that are increasingly consistent with the character's image.

The most recent Met Gala in the Big Apple is the most striking example—if not, just look at the watch necklaces or the watch coat. Timelessly elegant actresses like Nicole Kidman are seeking out vintage watches from Hollywood's golden age, while modern stars like Timothy Chalamet are looking to reinforce this image with an ultra-limited-edition Cartier, a vintage Patek collectible, or a Reverso. Even rappers like Jay-Z, formerly known for his diamond-studded Royal Oaks, are now sporting small Patek watches, one-of-a-kind pieces from the 1960s, valued at over $5 million.

At the brand level, the old favorites of the red carpet are still there. Brands like Cartier, Omega, JLC, and Richard Mille are clearly still sponsoring the watches we see on the wrists of their ambassadors. What has changed is the type and quality of those watches. We no longer see a regular steel Santos or a run-of-the-mill De Ville. Today, it's a one-off Panthère watch set with emeralds, or a secret Omega Seamaster 300, not yet presented to the public, that uses the same red carpet to generate pre-launch attention.

This makes perfect sense, especially for men. Historically, tuxedos and evening gowns tend to be very similar: elegant and timeless, but boring. Here lies an opportunity with a major differentiating factor on the wrist. Namely, this new world of gemstone watches also favors actresses. It's not uncommon to see them wearing special Bulgari or Van Cleef pieces that can cost close to a million dollars, taking the place previously held by pearl necklaces or designer jewelry.

This whole phenomenon has spawned a small sub-industry of red carpet watch "spotters," who are dedicated to identifying pieces from the gala and posting on social media. We love that this level of nerdy fanaticism is reaching pop culture. It's good for the industry, it's a great fit for Hollywood, and it brings us kids, the nerdy watch collectors, closer to a world we'd never have paid attention to. In this new era, we no longer look for new things at the Geneva showrooms, but at New York galas, the Formula 1 paddock, or the stands of the best NBA games. And it's the best proof that a good look always, and as we've said a thousand times, starts with a good watch.