The best watch launches of 2024
Daniel Pinto2024 is already halfway through its year, and it's time to review the best watch releases of 2024. We highlight innovative models like the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT and the Omega Moonwatch White, which have left a strong impression on me.
We're already entering the final stretch of the year, and it seems like the launches from the beginning are falling by the wayside. Here, we wanted to review those that made an impression on us, the standouts so far this year, and those that have pushed the boundaries of watchmaking and their respective categories forward. There are still a few shows left where there are sure to be new developments, so stay tuned for further updates on this list of 2024 hits.
1. Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Without a doubt, the fans' favorite. This vintage diver's watch captures the best of Rolex's 1960s style, adds a dash of new technology developed by Tudor, and delivers it in a truly attractive package for its price point. The dial colors may not be my favorite, but I have no doubt it's proving a huge commercial success. I, for one, will wait for a completely black version without aged details, eager to try out that bracelet, which now incorporates the wonderful buckle adjustment Tudor developed a few years ago and is beginning to implement in all its sports lines.
It seems this watch is being produced in low volumes or is behind schedule, as we haven't seen many on the streets. Perhaps it's a strategy by the brand to bring some exclusivity to its most desirable models, taking a page from its older brother, Rolex. Either way, this latest generation of Tudor-developed movements and the winning look of the Black Bay and Pelagos will undoubtedly be the foundation upon which the brand will continue to build its success in the coming years. Perhaps with fewer releases than we're used to, but I'm 100% sure we'll have more than one GMT dive watch option, which for me is the dream combination.
2. AP Royal Oak Mini Carolina Bucci
This is a watch that took us completely by surprise. We don't normally cover or pay much attention to women's watches, but this release is too good to ignore. Perhaps it's the hand of the brand's new CEO that's behind this success. A Royal Oak reduced to its smallest dimensions, but without losing an ounce of character or personality, with the added value of its "frosted gold" treatment, which gives it a unique finish never before seen in watchmaking.
A watch that could appeal to women, children, and even men with a bold style and a well-developed fashion sense. The price tag clearly isn't for everyone, but for those who can afford it, this could become the natural replacement for the Cartier Panthère and the Rolex Datejust as the quintessential women's watch.
3. Panerai Submersible Elux
Panerai is a complicated brand. Sometimes trapped in its own designs, we've seen it struggle in recent years to attract new customers to its stable. It seems it never managed to regain the "mojo" it had at the beginning of the millennium, and the trend toward smaller watches hasn't helped it regain momentum either. Still, Panerai comes back and surprises us with this bombshell. A watch that offers luminescence that seems electric, but is actually powered by a mechanical movement. This is everything that is good about high-end watchmaking.
A function that could easily be performed with a battery is replaced by an extremely complex mechanical movement, a system that took many years to develop and for which the brand holds several patents, and which was surely a real headache. All this to achieve a "wow" effect in a watch that obviously won't be a commercial success due to its price, which surely represents a loss for Panerai, but which tells us that the spark is still alive and that the Paneristi can continue to proudly wear their gigantic Luminors on their wrists.
4. Omega Moonwatch White
There's not much to say here. It's a Moonwatch, and it's white. For over 50 years, the Moonwatch has always had a black dial, and apart from a few special editions, which are now highly sought-after and rare, we've never seen it dressed in white. First, we saw it on Daniel Craig's wrist, and now it's a reality. The Moonwatch with a white dial looks spectacular, and we don't think it's a sacrilege to the original model. The type of white chosen is almost clinical, a NASA color very apt for this watch, and the red details only bring it closer to the interstellar world.
Technically, there's nothing new, and it could hardly be called a novelty since it's just a color change. But when something happens with the Moonwatch, we all pay attention, and at least for us, this move is a stroke of genius from Omega. It gives current collectors of this watch a chance to buy a new one without having to invest in development or technology.
5. IWC Pilot Ceralume
The brand has already accustomed us to innovative technology. They were among the first to use titanium, the first to bring the dual chronograph to mass production, and one of the first to achieve a mechanical depth gauge. The quintessential men's brand now offers something even more daring: a fully luminous watch. Not just the hands or the dial, but the entire case, strap, and all the watch components, except the pushers, are made of luminous ceramic. A completely new material. It delivers a spectacular, almost cybernetic visual effect. While it may not be as practical, this watch will undoubtedly be the center of attention at any social gathering and proves that the IWC Pilot is more alive than ever.
6. TAG Heuer x Hodinkee Seafarer
The watch world loves to bash Hodinkee. It may be due to its success or the personalities of Ben Clymer and his team, but the reality is that I feel the brand is making a comeback, and much of that is due to its collaboration strategy. After several disappointing models, they're back with this very special TAG, inspired by the 1970s Seafarer line for measuring regatta times and calculating and predicting tides. A watch that, in addition to being a true tool, brings a spectacular aesthetic to the Carrera family, incorporating an integrated rubber strap, a new push-button complication on the left side of the case, and a nice blend of vintage nostalgia and modern design. We've been missing a collaboration as ingenious, beautiful, and well-thought-out as this for a while. The fact that it sells out quickly is always a good sign and tells us they're righting the ship, dedicating themselves to what they do best, and silencing the critics. Congratulations.
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