Watches that made history: Top 5 pieces from the 2023 Geneva auctions
Fernando AldeaDiscover the record-breaking watches that captured the attention of collectors at recent Geneva auctions, including the 1969 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona "John Player Special" and the only prototype of the Biver Carillon Tourbillon.
1. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona "John Player Special" Ref. 6241 from 1969
Auctioned by Sotheby's, this Rolex Daytona is legendary and sits at the center of any collection it resides in. Named the "John Player Special" for its resemblance to the iconic 1970s Formula One racing car, this watch is a true statement of the Daytona spirit. It is believed that only 3,000 reference 6241s were produced, and only 300 in 18-karat yellow gold, a tiny fraction of which came with the coveted John Player Special dial. This exceptionally desirable piece is preserved on its original 18-karat gold bracelet. Although expected to sell for between CHF 600,000 and CHF 1,200,000, this unparalleled timepiece ultimately sold for CHF 2,230,000.
2. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Gold and Diamonds Ref. 6270 from 1988
This gem of a timepiece, auctioned by Phillips, is a rare example of Rolex's skill in combining watchmaking and jewelry. This exceptional timepiece was produced in the 1980s, at a time when jewelry watches were still a novelty. Its creation was commissioned by one of Rolex's most important clients, His Highness Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said of Oman. Only eight pieces of the reference 6270 exist on the market, including this watch, making it one of Rolex's rarest standard-production watches. Its design is as striking as its production is restricted. The bezel is set with baguette-cut diamonds, and the subsidiary counters feature a unique cobalt blue hue. In terms of preservation, this watch is one of the finest examples ever to appear in a showroom. This watch was expected to sell for an estimated CHF 1,200,000 to 2,400,000, but ultimately sold for an impressive CHF 3,690,000.
3. Rolex Milgauss Ref. 6541 from 1958
This rare and exquisite Rolex is probably the best-preserved and complete example of a reference 6541 ever to hit the auction market. Launched in 1956, the Milgauss was specifically designed for scientists, engineers, and technicians working in environments with high magnetic fields. This model withstands magnetic fields of up to 1,000 oersted thanks to the use of anti-magnetic alloys and an iron movement cover that creates a Faraday cage. This 1958 example remains in spectacular condition, with all its original factory features and finishes. Noteworthy are its distinctive lightning bolt seconds hand and its exceptionally rare black "Honeycomb" dial. The watch comes with a multitude of accessories, including its Rolex Chronometer Certificate, warranty, Milgauss literature, an additional chronometer certificate dated June 14, 1960, a hangtag, and a presentation box. It was estimated to sell for between 500,000 and 1,000,000 CHF, but it finally reached the figure of 2,238,000 CHF.
4. Patek Philippe Rose Gold by Peter S. Knoll Ref. 2497
This jewel from Patek Philippe's first series is a coveted collector's item. With its rose gold case, it is one of only six known pieces made by Emile Vichet. Manufactured in early 1953, this exceptional watch remained with Patek Philippe until it was sold in 1970, which has contributed to its preservation in exceptional condition. Reference 2497 is undoubtedly one of Patek Philippe's rarest, most attractive, and most important vintage watch models. During its 12 years of production, from 1951 to 1963, only 115 pieces were made. Powered by the 27SC Q movement, this watch is a perpetual calendar improvement on the finest hand-wound central seconds movement of its time: the 27 SC.
This watch, which once belonged to Peter S. Knoll, a member of the renowned Knoll furniture company family, bears his name engraved on the case back. The dial was crafted by Stern Frères with a solid gold base and a matte silver finish. This stunning watch was originally expected to sell for between CHF 600,000 and CHF 1,200,000, but ultimately exceeded expectations, selling for CHF 1,497,000.
5. Biver Carillon Tourbillon Titanium Prototype from 2023
The Biver Carillon Tourbillon watch is a unique piece that debuted at the Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva in Spring 2023. Created by industry veteran Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, this timepiece is a tribute to traditional watchmaking with a modern approach. The father-son team worked with the biggest names in the industry to produce this spectacular 42mm timepiece. Wrapping its horological design and technical prowess in titanium, it features a carillon, the king of complications, with three hammers striking the quarter-hours in three distinct notes. The silver obsidian dial, known for its dynamic and optimistic energy, houses the visible tourbillon escapement. This prototype, the first timepiece from the Biver brand, sold for CHF 1,270,000—a one-of-a-kind piece that will never be replicated in this titanium and silver obsidian configuration.
Conclusion
The 2023 Geneva auctions once again demonstrated the fascinating world of luxury watches and their growing popularity among collectors and enthusiasts. From the stunning Rolex Cosmograph Daytona "John Player Special" to the innovative Biver Carillon Tourbillon, these unique pieces are testament to watchmaking mastery and the art of timekeeping. Their sale for record sums reflects the value and appreciation these mechanical marvels command in the global market. We will be closely monitoring future auctions and the jewels of timekeeping that are sure to be presented.
