The new Submariner
LOFTThe Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, professional diving watches par excellence, feature a redesigned case, slightly enlarged to 41 mm in diameter. From now on, they will be powered by the calibre 3230—introduced this year—and the calibre 3235, respectively.
Conquering the depths
Rolex presents the new generation of its Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date, models that embody the brand's historic connection with the world of diving. These two watches will now feature a redesigned case, slightly enlarged to 41 mm in diameter—the shapes of which are enhanced by the luminous reflections on the case sides—as well as a bracelet with revised proportions. They are equipped with movements at the forefront of watchmaking technology, respectively the calibre 3230, introduced by the brand this year, and the calibre 3235, which features a date function in addition to the time and is a first for the Submariner range.
Faithful to the model's historic aesthetic, the new Submariner, in Oystersteel, features a black dial and rotating bezel with a Cerachrom disc. The yellow Rolesor version (a combination of Oystersteel and 18-carat yellow gold) of the Submariner Date combines a royal blue dial and a rotating bezel with a blue Cerachrom disc.
Two versions of the Submariner Date, one in Oystersteel and the other in 18-carat white gold, feature an original aesthetic configuration: the dial and rotating bezel with Cerachrom disc feature different colors. The first combines a black dial with a green bezel, and the second a black dial with a blue bezel.
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date are certified as a Superlative Chronometer, ensuring their outstanding performance on the wrist.
An unusual story
The creation of the Submariner is closely linked to the rise of scuba diving. In the early 1940s, deep-sea exploration experienced a significant shift thanks to the emergence of scuba diving. Rolex then played a pivotal role in the development and manufacture of water-resistant chronometer wristwatches, particularly thanks to the Oyster case, patented in 1926. Aiming to create the watch best suited to the needs of divers, the brand embarked on a process of experimentation from the 1950s onward, involving numerous fruitful collaborations with diving pioneers. These experiences and subsequent technical advances led, in 1953, to the launch of the Submariner, the first diving wristwatch water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.
Just one year after its launch, the Submariner is already water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters. It soon saw other technical innovations, including the addition of a luminescent capsule to the hour hand—to make it clearly distinguishable from the minute hand—and crown protectors.
In 1969, Rolex introduced a model equipped with a date function: the Submariner Date. Its water resistance, then guaranteed to a depth of 200 meters, was extended to 300 meters in 1979. The Submariner, for its part, became water-resistant to this same depth starting in 1989.
Over time, the Submariner and Submariner Date have moved away from their nautical roots to conquer land as well. These renowned performance watches have become archetypes of the action watch, both on land and underwater.
Readability and functionality
During a dive, being able to read the time without mistake is a matter of survival. That's why the dial of the Submariner and Submariner Date features a simple and clean design. The hour and minute hands, clearly differentiated by size and shape, as well as the indexes featuring simple geometric shapes—triangle, circle, and rectangle—contribute to instant and reliable time reading, preventing divers from any risk of confusion underwater.
The Submariner and Submariner Date also feature a Chromalight display: the hands and hour markers are coated or filled with a long-lasting luminescent material that emits a faint blue light when the watch is immersed in the dark. On the bezel, the zero of the graduation, indicated by a triangle, is also visible in the dark thanks to a bezel containing the same luminescent material.
High-tech ceramics
Rolex has played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics for the manufacture of monobloc bezels and monobloc bezel discs. Particularly scratch-resistant, these materials exhibit colorfastness and unusually intense colors. The brand has developed exclusive and innovative expertise and manufacturing methods that allow it to produce these ceramic components completely independently.
In the Submariner and Submariner Date versions presented, the unidirectional rotating bezel features a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom disc in black, green, or blue ceramic, allowing divers to read their dive time with complete confidence. The hollow-cast graduations and numerals are colored by depositing platinum or yellow gold using a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) technique. Thanks to the notches around its edges, which provide excellent grip, the bezel is easy to handle, even when wearing gloves.
The Rolesor, the union of gold and steel
Combining 18-carat gold and Oystersteel in a single Rolex watch, the Rolesor has been a true signature of the brand since 1933, when the name was registered. It represents the union of two metals: one, noble and precious, captivates with its brilliance and durability; the other, renowned for its corrosion resistance, guarantees robustness and reliability. These characteristics perfectly reflect the fusion of elegance and performance achieved by Rolex watches.
In the new yellow Rolesor version of the Submariner Date, the bezel, crown, and central elements of the bracelet are made of 18-carat yellow gold, while the middle and lateral elements of the bracelet are made of Oystersteel.
The Oyster case, a symbol of water resistance
A paragon of robustness and reliability, the Oyster case of the Submariner and Submariner Date models presented here guarantees water resistance to a depth of 300 meters. Its case is machined from a solid block of Oystersteel, a particularly corrosion-resistant alloy, or 18-carat white gold. Its case back, featuring a fine fluting system, is hermetically screwed down using a special tool; only Rolex-authorized watchmakers can access the movement in this way. The Triplock crown, featuring a triple water resistance system and carved case-case protectors, screws securely into the case. The crystal—surmounted, on the Submariner Date, by the Cyclops lens at 3 o'clock for easy date reading—is made of virtually scratch-resistant sapphire. Completely water-resistant, the Oyster case optimally protects the movement within.
The Perpetual calibers 3230 and 3235
The new-generation Submariner and Submariner Date are respectively equipped with the calibre 3230—unveiled this year—and the calibre 3235, movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. These technologically advanced self-winding mechanical movements have been the subject of several patent applications. They offer essential improvements in precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, ease of use, and reliability.
Caliber 3230 and Caliber 3235 feature Rolex's patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with exceptional operational reliability. It is made of nickel-phosphorus and is insensitive to magnetic fields. These movements also feature an optimized version of the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by the brand from an exclusive paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to ten times more precise than a conventional hairspring in the event of shocks. The blue Parachrom hairspring also features a Rolex finial curve that guarantees regularity of its rate in all positions. The oscillator is mounted on high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, developed and patented by Rolex, which give the movement greater resistance to shocks.
Both calibers feature a self-winding Perpetual rotor mechanism. Thanks to their barrel architecture and the superior performance of their escapement, they have a power reserve of approximately 70 hours.
Oyster bracelet and Oysterlock safety clasp
The Submariner and Submariner Date versions presented are fitted with an Oyster bracelet. Developed in the late 1930s, this three-piece bracelet stands out for its robustness.
The Oyster bracelet on these new watches is equipped with an Oysterlock folding clasp, designed and patented by Rolex, which prevents accidental opening. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, developed and patented by the brand. Consisting of a rack integrated under the clasp cover, this particularly ingenious device operates via a sliding link with a tooth that locks into the desired notch. The Rolex Glidelock on the Oyster bracelet has ten notches, each approximately 2 mm in diameter; it allows the bracelet length to be easily adjusted by approximately 20 mm without tools.
The Submariner Date's 18-carat white gold Oyster bracelet also features ceramic inserts inside its links to enhance its fluidity and longevity. Furthermore, an invisible fastening system provides perfect visual continuity between the bracelet and the case.
Superlative Chronometer Certification
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date carry the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation attests that every watch leaving the brand's workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests carried out by Rolex in its own laboratories and according to its own criteria. These certification tests are carried out on the entire watch, once the movement is cased, to guarantee its superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, water resistance, automatic winding, and autonomy. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is in the range of -2/+2 seconds per day, i.e. more than double that required of an Official Chronometer.
The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that accompanies all Rolex watches and a five-year international warranty.
Source: Rolex Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Share on linkedin Share on WhatsApp Share on email
