The French watch scene today

France is on everyone's lips, and not just because of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. But what about French watchmaking? While sports and fashion shine in the City of Light, it seems the local watch industry isn't so lucky. Join us for this analysis of the French brands trying to reclaim their place in the watchmaking world.

The rebirth of small French brands

France, the birthplace of great advances in watchmaking, has seen some of its historic brands absorbed by Swiss giants. Breguet and Cartier, for example, are now part of Richemont and Swatch, respectively, but still proudly bear their French heritage. However, smaller brands like Baltic, Yema, and LMM (La Montre Merci) are struggling to make a name for themselves in a market dominated by Swiss giants the size of the Alps.

Baltic, for example, has managed to captivate fans with its combination of vintage design and exceptional customer service. From its store in Paris to its monthly releases, Baltic is proving that it is possible to offer quality and design at affordable prices without losing the French touch. Merci, on the other hand, has gained notoriety not only for its collaborations with Hodinkee, but also for being the watch of choice for President Emmanuel Macron. With a focus on quality craftsmanship and minimalist design, Merci is positioning itself as a brand to watch.

Iconic brands that defy time

Still, not all French brands are on the rise. Bell & Ross, known for its aviation-inspired watches, appears to be at a crossroads. While its square design with visible screws may be iconic, the brand has struggled to stay relevant in a market where it competes with heavyweights like Omega. High prices and a design that some consider repetitive have left Bell & Ross struggling to maintain its position.

In contrast, Cartier and Hermès are booming. Cartier, with its combination of watchmaking and jewelry, has adapted to the modern market without losing its essence. The brand remains a benchmark of elegance and sophistication, and its line of watches, ranging from the Tank to the Santos, is a testament to its ability to innovate within the classic. Hermès, for its part, has proven that a luxury brand can succeed in watchmaking without the need for major marketing campaigns. Its watches, available only in Hermès stores, are synonymous with exclusivity and quality, which has led the brand to become one of the best-selling brands in the world, surpassing even names like Panerai.

The Breguet Case: When History Is Not Enough

And then there's Breguet, the brand that gave rise to many of the complications we know in watchmaking today. However, despite its glorious past, Breguet has stagnated in recent years. Its recent releases have failed to capture the public's imagination, and its aesthetic, while rich in tradition, seems to have failed to evolve enough to remain relevant in a market where innovation is key.

Breguet's problem isn't a lack of quality; its watches remain mechanical works of art. The problem is that, in a world where novelty and fashion are rewarded, Breguet seems to have fallen behind the times. With designs that many consider disproportionate and unattractive, the brand desperately needs a breakthrough that will return it to the forefront of the watchmaking industry.

Conclusion

The French watchmaking landscape is diverse and, in some cases, contradictory. While brands like Cartier and Hermès continue to reap success, others like Breguet are struggling to survive. Emerging brands, meanwhile, are showing that innovation and loyalty to French tradition can coexist and thrive in a competitive market. France remains a force to be reckoned with in the watchmaking world, and while some brands need a boost, others are ready to shine on this global stage.